BOSS DD2 or DD3 mods for tape echo sound
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Will the DD-3 mods work for a DD-5? Are the resistors/caps labeled with the same numbers?
- Greenmachine
- Cap Cooler
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Has anybody replaced SMD resistors/caps with through-hole parts yet on a DD3a or DD3B? I'm thinking about doing this so I'd like to hear your approach?
Do you just tin the leads on a resistor and solder them onto the teensy-weensy smd pads? Or perhaps you take your teensyweensy drill bit and drill holes? Maybe you don't even attempt to replace smd with "normal" components? Do tell.
Do you just tin the leads on a resistor and solder them onto the teensy-weensy smd pads? Or perhaps you take your teensyweensy drill bit and drill holes? Maybe you don't even attempt to replace smd with "normal" components? Do tell.
"[Y]ou want sketchy, dude? I breadboard on a door." -- RnFR, 2011
"This amp is freakin loud, like crazy, I'm going to kill pets loud." -- mich, 2011
"This amp is freakin loud, like crazy, I'm going to kill pets loud." -- mich, 2011
- JiM
- Diode Debunker
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Why would you want to do that ? In general, SMD components are not especially lower quality than through-hole components ... if you're just about mojo, leave the poor thing alone !Greenmachine wrote:Has anybody replaced SMD resistors/caps with through-hole parts yet on a DD3a or DD3B? I'm thinking about doing this so I'd like to hear your approach?
Do you just tin the leads on a resistor and solder them onto the teensy-weensy smd pads? Or perhaps you take your teensyweensy drill bit and drill holes? Maybe you don't even attempt to replace smd with "normal" components? Do tell.
Oh, maybe i got it wrong : are you talking about changing them all, or just modding a couple of them for filtering the repeats ?
Drilling tiny holes is out of question, it's too small and you might break copper traces on the other side. Maybe you could use nearby vias, if they're not too small, and if they exist where you need them.
Soldering component leads on SMD "lands" would work from an electrical point of view, but hardly from a mechanical point of view. You would have to glue the big components somewhere, and maybe use some thin wire (like coil wire or wire-wrap) to connect the leads to the solder pads.
In the end, it might require more skills and patience than using adequate SMD components.
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- Greenmachine
- Cap Cooler
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Ha-ha! That's hilarious. I don't care about mojo. I just want to do the mods contained in this thread with what I've got around. I don't have any SMD parts around. Interesting idea about the coil wire...JiM wrote:Why would you want to do that ? In general, SMD components are not especially lower quality than through-hole components ... if you're just about mojo, leave the poor thing alone !Greenmachine wrote:Has anybody replaced SMD resistors/caps with through-hole parts yet on a DD3a or DD3B? I'm thinking about doing this so I'd like to hear your approach?
Do you just tin the leads on a resistor and solder them onto the teensy-weensy smd pads? Or perhaps you take your teensyweensy drill bit and drill holes? Maybe you don't even attempt to replace smd with "normal" components? Do tell.
Oh, maybe i got it wrong : are you talking about changing them all, or just modding a couple of them for filtering the repeats ?
.
"[Y]ou want sketchy, dude? I breadboard on a door." -- RnFR, 2011
"This amp is freakin loud, like crazy, I'm going to kill pets loud." -- mich, 2011
"This amp is freakin loud, like crazy, I'm going to kill pets loud." -- mich, 2011
- JiM
- Diode Debunker
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Dallas Rangemaster (w/ noisy OC75, negative ground)
SubCaster tube booster (w/ NoS russian tube, PtP)
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Greenmachine wrote:Ha-ha! That's hilarious. I don't care about mojo. I just want to do the mods contained in this thread with what I've got around.
When it's done with larger ICs, this technique is called "dead bug prototyping".Greenmachine wrote:I don't have any SMD parts around. Interesting idea about the coil wire...
Another example (althrough that bug looks still alive) : http://www.geocities.jp/arduino_diecimi ... ex_en.html
I only give negative feedback.
- Greenmachine
- Cap Cooler
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- my favorite amplifier: Fender Blackface Deluxe Reverb
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Roger Mayer Octavia
Klon Centaur (Bajaman/Soulsonic)
DOD 440 Envelope Filter
MXR Phase 90
DOD FET Preamp
Dallas Arbiter Fuzz Face
Soulsonic Hunny Bunny Overdrive
BYOC Analog Delay
Craig Anderton Headphone Amp
Anderton Mini Amp
Bajaman Real Tube Overdrive
Fender Deluxe 5E3 with Tone Stack Mod.
Fender Princeton 5F2-a
Keen Neovibe
Aquapuss Delay
Anderton AMS-100 Guitar Synth (abandoned)
DOD 280 Compressor
Weird Sound Generator
Beavis Audio Noisy Cricket
80's Rat
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"Is this a school for ants?! How are the children supposed to learn if they can't even fit inside the building?" --Derek Zoolander.
That Arduino looks like it was built by ants. Somebody's got a veeeeery steady hand. Thanks for pic and link. Most informative.
That Arduino looks like it was built by ants. Somebody's got a veeeeery steady hand. Thanks for pic and link. Most informative.
"[Y]ou want sketchy, dude? I breadboard on a door." -- RnFR, 2011
"This amp is freakin loud, like crazy, I'm going to kill pets loud." -- mich, 2011
"This amp is freakin loud, like crazy, I'm going to kill pets loud." -- mich, 2011
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- Joined: 15 Jun 2010, 06:12
Hi everybody, I would like to know if there is a mod to get more headroom on the DD3, because mine works fine on guitar input but when I use it on the effects loop I can hear some unwanted clipping. Thanks.
Julio
Julio
hello all
im new to this forum so hello!
i did the dd3(a) mods last night and all sounded good. i came down in the morning, did the pedal back up and tightened the jacks.
plugged back in and all was dead. there's a signal through to get a clean guitar, but it doesnt engage the delay. not repeats, no led. im assuming its an input/power problem?
i noticed the negative (black wire) from the battery had come loose. still attached to the battery but loose the other end.
where does this go, and will this bring life back to my pedal? (incidentally, im using the mains 9v input, not the battery)
does anyone have or know of a website with the wiring schematic?
it is the pink labelled DD 3a.
thanks for any help
Adam
im new to this forum so hello!
i did the dd3(a) mods last night and all sounded good. i came down in the morning, did the pedal back up and tightened the jacks.
plugged back in and all was dead. there's a signal through to get a clean guitar, but it doesnt engage the delay. not repeats, no led. im assuming its an input/power problem?
i noticed the negative (black wire) from the battery had come loose. still attached to the battery but loose the other end.
where does this go, and will this bring life back to my pedal? (incidentally, im using the mains 9v input, not the battery)
does anyone have or know of a website with the wiring schematic?
it is the pink labelled DD 3a.
thanks for any help
Adam
- lolbou
- Old Solderhand
I just did Bajaman's mods on the DD-3b. Sounds nice indeed. Sweeter echoes for sure. I don't know if the procedure already exists online for this unit, but identifying the components is easy with the DD-3 schematic on hand.
If you want to perform these, here are the guidelines, as Bajaman's suggest:
- change R9 (33k) to 10k.
- change R50 (47k) to 22k.
- change C51 (1µF/50V) to 10n film cap.
- add 100n film cap across E.LEVEL potentiometer (lug 1 and 3).
Here's R9 (see black arrow) close to IC1 on the upper left of the PCB (seen from above): Here's R50 (see black arrow) close to IC2 (compander) on the upper right: And on the potentiometer board, C51 and the extra 100n capacitor: I did desolder the yellow wire coming to pad 14 to have more space. Remove the jacks/LED and potentiometer board. Resistors are 0603 SMD ones. Not that hard to remove, and cheap. I did salvage mine from a dead RV-5. Not that clean, but not too bad either considering my equipment and skills, and continuity was checked before assembling the unit again anyway.
Hope this helps! Thanks Bajaman for this mod!
If you want to perform these, here are the guidelines, as Bajaman's suggest:
- change R9 (33k) to 10k.
- change R50 (47k) to 22k.
- change C51 (1µF/50V) to 10n film cap.
- add 100n film cap across E.LEVEL potentiometer (lug 1 and 3).
Here's R9 (see black arrow) close to IC1 on the upper left of the PCB (seen from above): Here's R50 (see black arrow) close to IC2 (compander) on the upper right: And on the potentiometer board, C51 and the extra 100n capacitor: I did desolder the yellow wire coming to pad 14 to have more space. Remove the jacks/LED and potentiometer board. Resistors are 0603 SMD ones. Not that hard to remove, and cheap. I did salvage mine from a dead RV-5. Not that clean, but not too bad either considering my equipment and skills, and continuity was checked before assembling the unit again anyway.
Hope this helps! Thanks Bajaman for this mod!
- Are you a mod or a rocker?
- Uh, no, I'm a mocker.
- Uh, no, I'm a mocker.
Really cool, guess I should get a DD-2 to perform the Mod
Just curious what Pete Cornish is doing in his TES. Like the Delay Timex4 Switch and the Bandwidth Selector. Would be interesting
Just curious what Pete Cornish is doing in his TES. Like the Delay Timex4 Switch and the Bandwidth Selector. Would be interesting
- robinbowes
- Breadboard Brother
Am gonna try this on my DD-2.
I guess this might be useful:
http://www.synfo.nl/servicemanuals/Boss ... _NOTES.pdf
R.
I guess this might be useful:
http://www.synfo.nl/servicemanuals/Boss ... _NOTES.pdf
R.
- robinbowes
- Breadboard Brother
Even more useful, I knocked up a couple of images to show the component locations more easily. The original component values are shown in brackets.
Am not sure what's happening with the images, but something seems to be restricting the width of the first one - it opens fine if you right-click and open the image in a new window/tab.
R.
Am not sure what's happening with the images, but something seems to be restricting the width of the first one - it opens fine if you right-click and open the image in a new window/tab.
R.
- robinbowes
- Breadboard Brother
Just done this to my DD-2. I'd forgotten how tight Boss PCBs are, and how small the components are that they use.
No major drama though - job done.
R.
No major drama though - job done.
R.
- sinner
- Old Solderhand
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robinbowes wrote:Just done this to my DD-2. I'd forgotten how tight Boss PCBs are, and how small the components are that they use.
No major drama though - job done.
R.
How do you like it then?
- robinbowes
- Breadboard Brother
If I'm absolutely honest, I can't remember what it used to sound like so am not sure how much difference it has made.
The DD-2 sounded sweet anyway, and it still does...
R.
The DD-2 sounded sweet anyway, and it still does...
R.
I recently bought a used DD3 with the intention to mod it, but apparently there is a new, all SMT revision C with a new chipset. The pots are all 50kb and have control voltages on them, so the cap across the pot mod is history
Does anyone have a schematic for Rev.C? I can only find the older ones. Analogman still mods these, so it should be possible to find a point on the board where to do the high-cut.
Does anyone have a schematic for Rev.C? I can only find the older ones. Analogman still mods these, so it should be possible to find a point on the board where to do the high-cut.
- JiM
- Diode Debunker
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Proco Rat
MXR MicroAmp in a volume pedal
TubeDriver (w/ NoS russian tube and big muff tone contol) + Phase 45 (w/ univibe cap ratio)
Dallas Rangemaster (w/ noisy OC75, negative ground)
SubCaster tube booster (w/ NoS russian tube, PtP)
Hot Harmonics
Music From Outer Space SubCommander in progress
Crackle Not OK
Simple bass blender in a 1590A
Bazz Fuss with a photo-darlington - Location: France
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Some info about the different versions of DD3 :
http://stinkfoot.se/archives/516
But you probably know that already.
There is a service manual somewhere : http://servicerepairmanuals.net/others/ ... ce-manual/
EDIT : There it is !
http://www.synfo.nl/servicemanuals/Boss ... ES_3rd.pdf
http://stinkfoot.se/archives/516
But you probably know that already.
There is a service manual somewhere : http://servicerepairmanuals.net/others/ ... ce-manual/
EDIT : There it is !
http://www.synfo.nl/servicemanuals/Boss ... ES_3rd.pdf
I only give negative feedback.
Just tried this on my DSD3 and it's saved me a purchase, thank you!
Really happy with the results.
Have lost the self osc, but still have plenty enough repeats, and they match the input at 12 o'clock on the effects level, so you can make repeats louder than the original signal, which is great.
Very pleased.
Thank you x
Really happy with the results.
Have lost the self osc, but still have plenty enough repeats, and they match the input at 12 o'clock on the effects level, so you can make repeats louder than the original signal, which is great.
Very pleased.
Thank you x
I've noticed the DSD-3 variation of the mod I did was letting sound bleed through when bypassed.
Having checked the schematics it looks like instead of...
This brings back the self-osc too
Having checked the schematics it looks like instead of...
It is R36, not R30 that you swap out for 22k.The numbers are different:
DD2 | DSD3
R14 | R17 (same value)
R33 | R30; value is 33k (47k in DD-2)
C26 | C25 (same value)
This brings back the self-osc too