Joyo Ultimate Octave: how to make it useable?

[Sva99.rev1]

I agree, that before you mod, you should be certain that you want to. This can be a tricky mod and may not be what you are looking for in the end.

Here's a couple things I noticed after I performed this mod:

-You have to turn your guitar volume down to produce any usable octave up.
-Neck pickups sound the best.
-The high tone on the pedal can drill your ears.
-There will always be some fuzz.
-The tracings on the board like to rip off if you solder on them too much.
-The components are hard to get out.

This is a cool mod that can make the pedal work better.

This pedal can do some crazy things. Try it with stereo chorus... OMG. I like to tone it down with a little fuzz with octave-up on. Kinda grungy.

[fnl61]

Hi folks,
I have just bought an "ultimate overdrive" version jf-12 (no joyo branding but with ram) and am considering doing the mods on this thread, but I have a question about the 3PDT footswitch. Mine does not latch (the bypass/on one) to where I have to hold it down to actuate the distortion circuit (oddly the LED lights as if latched, but the sound is dead unless i keep the switch pressed down). Are these switches available with the daughterboard +led? I would hate to have to desolder all nine connections mating the switch to the board! Should I open up the switch and attempt to repair the latch function? A little off topic, but what is up with the coding on the ribbon cable??, my eyes aren't that great, but it appears that the only marks are some variety of pink marks, dots or stripes, maybe chinese symbols, i don't know, but I would have to mark them myself somehow to keep them in order if i replace the switch. Thanks in advance for any replies!

[fnl61]

Hi folks,
I have just bought an "ultimate overdrive" version jf-12 (no joyo branding but with ram) and am considering doing the mods on this thread, but I have a question about the 3PDT footswitch. Mine does not latch (the bypass/on one) to where I have to hold it down to actuate the distortion circuit (oddly the LED lights as if latched, but the sound is dead unless i keep the switch pressed down). Are these switches available with the daughterboard +led? I would hate to have to desolder all nine connections mating the switch to the board! Should I open up the switch and attempt to repair the latch function? A little off topic, but what is up with the coding on the ribbon cable??, my eyes aren't that great, but it appears that the only marks are some variety of pink marks, dots or stripes, maybe chinese symbols, i don't know, but I would have to mark them myself somehow to keep them in order if i replace the switch. Thanks in advance for any replies!

****************************************************Update***************************************************************
I carefully disasembled the switch and one of the sprung actuator points was out of place, I gave the springs a little stretch and carefully reassembled the switch, and now it functions correctly! So now I have to decide whether to mod it or not. I haven't removed the board to see if the caps are soldered with the more negative leg on the wrong sides, but I do notice the octaver is not very pronounced, kind of just makes the tone a little more shrill, so I'll probably try it. If any of you have this jf-12 without the joyo labeling but with the ram named "ultimate octave" let me know the results of the mod if you've done it, Thanks!

[fnl61]

After fixing the switch I decided the fuzz tone and octave effect were not super, so I did both mods. I used a Weller 140/100 pistol type iron and it melted the solder very easily. I used de-soldering wick before and after pulling the components, but still had a little trouble getting the holes cleaned out of solder. Couple of tries from each side and I was ready to go. One poster mentioned his pedal didn't work after doing the mod, Here is a possible reason why, I accidentally de-soldered the diode adjacent to the film capacitor below the tone pot while removing it, I was using a tiny flat-head to put some upward pressure while removing the capacitor and got the diode too. I pushed the diode back in re-soldered it and hope I'm ready to go. I did the mod today at work, so I can't report if I was successful yet.

[fnl61]

Success! The mod did improve the tone control, and the distortion effect. The octave effect is more pronounced, but mostly on the higher frets, like the tenth fret and above, below that I can't tell if it made much of a difference, but on the higher frets it sounds much cooler, I get the "synthy" sound that folks have been describing, so cool! If you have one of these jf-12 pedals I say mod it!

[uberloser]

Hi, I'm new to this site; actually joined just for this tread.
I recently purchased a Joyo Voodoo Octave Fuzz. (I actually own a couple of Joyo pedals and I'm quite impressed; the vintage overdrive is a permanent fixture on my board.)
I was looking for some mods to get more control of the fuzz effect, and enhance the octave effect.
I read on an earlier post that Joyo had corrected the problems with their circuit on their newer versions of this pedal. Can anyone confirm this rumor? I can't read a schematic to save my life and my inexperience with Fuzz pedals limits my ability to objectively evaluate the tone of the pedal, but it seems that the problems described in this thread still persist with my pedal. (I've been playing 30+ years and this is my first Fuzz pedal!)

The pedal doesn't sound that bad, short of the problems listed above. I'm not that skilled with mods, so I wanted to confirm that the circuit layout irregularities described above still persist on the current version before I dive in and attempt the mods.
Any input would be greatly appreciated.

[uberloser]

Just a follow up to my last post
It appears that the Ultimate Octave and the Voodoo Octave share the same PCB, labeled JOYO JF-12, 2010.11.24. Therefore, I assumed that the layout of the circuit regarding the polarity of the 10uF coupling cap on the PCB was still incorrect, since the PCB version hasn't changed; I also conclued that the rumors about Joyo correcting the schematic for the Voodoo Octave were also unfounded, because it would logically follow that the manufacturer would only follow the layout of the PCB. Therefore, I took a risk and rotated the C9 & C15 caps 180 degrees.

This mod totally enhances the octave effect; it's present at all volumes and it contains a synth-like component--very pleasant . I didn't bother swapping the other two caps, only because I ran out of steam rotating the 10uf caps (it was my first mod, and I found it to be somewhat difficult). The rotation of the 10uf does have a pretty dramatic effect on the octave, but doesn't change the fuzz effect too much; it's still a little "raging," and I haven't used it with that fuzz set past 11:00, but you can get a nice vintage effect with the volume lowered on the guitar. Full volume on the guitar gives you a modern heavy distortion/fuzz.

All in all, after performing this mod, the JF-12 is a very useable pedal. Thanks to Ian444 for his advice with this mod.

[diggum12]

I also can confirm this. Just bought the Voodoo Octave and the caps are backwards. I did put new caps in though (instead of rotating old ones) because electrolytic caps form when current is applied. If the results work, they work, but I'd think best practice would be to put new ones in.

Regarding desoldering: a little fresh solder, a little flux, and using desoldering braid (letting it sit directly on the component legs for and extra 5 seconds) makes this a breeze. I did the two caps and both LEDs in 15 minutes. (You don't even have to remove the switches for the LED's. Just desolder and bend them out of the way.) Back together in no time.

Definitely more pronounced octave effect. Can't beat this for $33 on Amazon Prime.

[johnnyg]

I'd think best practice would be to put new ones in.

Me too.

To make life easy I'd pull the old ones and replace with new, non-polarised electrolytic capacitors.

[diggum12]

I'd think best practice would be to put new ones in.

Me too.

To make life easy I'd pull the old ones and replace with new, non-polarised electrolytic capacitors.

Yeah but 10uF isn't gonna fit the bill.

[johnnyg]

I'd think best practice would be to put new ones in.

Me too.

To make life easy I'd pull the old ones and replace with new, non-polarised electrolytic capacitors.

Yeah but 10uF isn't gonna fit the bill.

You can get 10uf aluminium electrolytic bipolar / nonpolarised capacitors, intended for things like speaker crossovers. They're inexpensive and readily found. E.g. http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/293/e-vp-23529.pdf

Sure you know that and just misread my post (I've a few old wima 10uf film caps that you would struggle to fit in the joyo box... it'd be a heinous waste to use them for this purpose as well

[diggum12]

No I did not know that, so I'm glad you posted that. I would like to try some of those!

[eds0n]

Hi, I wanted to do the mod, but cannot seem to be able to remove the solder :S

Anyone else struggling with it? What temperature? How did you remove it?

/Edson

[diggum12]

I offered this above. Good luck!

"Regarding desoldering: a little fresh solder, a little flux, and using desoldering braid (letting it sit directly on the component legs for and extra 5 seconds) makes this a breeze. I did the two caps and both LEDs in 15 minutes. (You don't even have to remove the switches for the LED's. Just desolder and bend them out of the way.) Back together in no time. "

[eds0n]

I offered this above. Good luck!

"Regarding desoldering: a little fresh solder, a little flux, and using desoldering braid (letting it sit directly on the component legs for and extra 5 seconds) makes this a breeze. I did the two caps and both LEDs in 15 minutes. (You don't even have to remove the switches for the LED's. Just desolder and bend them out of the way.) Back together in no time. "

Thanks! What flux?

/Edson

[diggum12]

In simple terms, it's a nasty goo that helps draw away impurities (in our case, solder) when heat is applied. Most electronics stores have it. Some hardware stores have it too.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flux_(metallurgy)

[uberloser]

I finally completed all the mods suggested by Ian and I'm very pleased with the results. This was my first foray into pedal mods, so it took some time to develop the courage to go rummaging around in the heretofore mysterious, forbidden innards of an effects pedal.
I have one final question and I'm wondering if any of the more experienced posters have given it any consideration: The Fuzz control still tends to be "too raging" past the 10:00 position, and there's very little difference in the definition of the fuzz effect past that 10:00 point on the sweep of the control pot. Below 10:00, however, the effect is classic old-school fuzz, very playable and responsive. The result is as follows: the pot acts more like a 2 position switch between old-school fuzz and raging modern fuzz. Both enjoyable, but I was looking for more graduation between the 2 extremes.

I'm wondering if anyone can suggest a mod to even out the control on the fuzz effect. I noticed in reviewing the previous posts that the pots in the JOYO are 100k and the original models on which this clone is based, the FOXX and Fullertone, I believe have 50k pots for the Fuzz control.
Does anyone think that changing the value of the Fuzz pot would enhance the effect of the Fuzz control on this pedal.
Any other suggestions?

[astrobass]

Are you using log/audio (A) taper pots or linear taper (B) pots? It sounds like you're using a log pot.

[kfm]

hello, everyone. i bought the joyo voodoo octave to preform this mod after i ran into this thread. this would have been my first ever mod. i went to radio shack to get the soldering iron (30 watt), solder, and a removal braid. this went terrible!!!! it tool forever to get the caps out and when i did it ripped one of the cap legs off. i said whatever i can just buy replacement caps. but then i realized i was missing the soldering pads to put the caps back in the board. this has been an awful experience to say the least. it just seemed like the caps wouldn't come loose, the iron wasn't melting the solder down to even get the caps out and the braid seemed to do nothing when it came to soaking any of it up. not to mention i melted a part of the plastic input jack in the process!!! i obviously just suck at doing this lol. my question is, is my pedal salvageable. i feel terrible that not only i suck at even doing mods but that a ruined my pedal in the process. any help would be amazing. -kyle

[johnnyg]

hello, everyone. i bought the joyo voodoo octave to preform this mod after i ran into this thread. this would have been my first ever mod. i went to radio shack to get the soldering iron (30 watt), solder, and a removal braid. this went terrible!!!! it tool forever to get the caps out and when i did it ripped one of the cap legs off. i said whatever i can just buy replacement caps. but then i realized i was missing the soldering pads to put the caps back in the board. this has been an awful experience to say the least. it just seemed like the caps wouldn't come loose, the iron wasn't melting the solder down to even get the caps out and the braid seemed to do nothing when it came to soaking any of it up. not to mention i melted a part of the plastic input jack in the process!!! i obviously just suck at doing this lol. my question is, is my pedal salvageable. i feel terrible that not only i suck at even doing mods but that a ruined my pedal in the process. any help would be amazing. -kyle

You shouldn't feel too bad - the pcbs in these Chinese effects are poor quality. The cheapest type of pcb you can manufacture I'm sure. I've tried working on a couple with a soldering iron and solder sucker and they proved only capable of withstanding the original factory soldering - pads start to crinkle and lift just about no matter how careful and adept you are.

The use of lead-free solder and being double sided makes working no these boards for anything more than the most minimal changes or smallest repairs not worth the effort.

The mistake (easily made) with these cheap Joyo etc pedals is to think that you can 'make a silk purse out of a sow's ear' - & at not much cost.

What you should do is build an entire new board for the pedal - fit that in the enclosure. (That, unlike the circuit inside, is pretty nice quality after all - other than the bizarre paint jobs on some of these... although sometimes they are amusing and maybe fun for that reason).

You could mess around trying to run jumpers to replace lifted pads and tracks - but it will prove a time consuming mess & a dismal or frustrating task.

Find a vero layout for the Foxx Tone or buy/create a pcb. Honestly less effort than trying to mod such a thing.