Skreddy - Mayo
- monkeyxx
- Resistor Ronker
with sustain most of the way full, and guitar volume at half, you can get a nice Turbo Rat style rhythm sound out of this thing as well, I've just discovered. so it doesn't really do overdrive or clean up that much, but the clean up is good for shades of medium distortion to full on searing fuzz... nice!!
- Whoismarykelly
- Resistor Ronker
Im just saying that if I put my real Mayonaise (that other auction is a Mayonaise MKII) for auction I think it would sell for significantly more than I paid for it but who knows. The auction you are talking about didn't get any bids because it was a BIN auction. If there were bidders it probably would have gone way higher because that was right in the thick of Skreddy mania. I've been offered $1000 for it but Im not interested in selling my Skreddy pedals. I enjoy using them and having them around but they aren't investment pieces to me.Kitrae wrote:"Real market value" is whatever someone is willing to pay, as we all know. I don't think anyone will pay $1100. I have seen quite a few boutique and vintage pedals in the past year relisted over and over again, with price drops each time. Some people have no idea what they can get so they throw a price out there and fish. By the third or fourth listing the BIN or MB is us usually in line. Almost everything I have bought this year was from a relist. The good thing is, most people who put a watch on the original list don't bother again with subsequent relists, so less bidders
- Kitrae
- Breadboard Brother
Same here. I have a Mayonnaise, Mayo, Pink Flesh, and the Pig Mine. I rotate one through my pedal board every few months. Don't think I could ever sell one. The $600 or so auction I was talking about was not a BIN, and that was a few year ago, but I'm sure you could easily get $600 or more for your Mayonnaise today. The market is so slow right now that most of the other Skreddys are hit and miss for resale. Same with vintage pedals.
That BIN Mark II did not sell. There is also a Mayo that has been relisted a few times on ebay right now at $1000 BIN. A friend of mine just got a Mayo on ebay a few months ago for a little over $400.
That BIN Mark II did not sell. There is also a Mayo that has been relisted a few times on ebay right now at $1000 BIN. A friend of mine just got a Mayo on ebay a few months ago for a little over $400.
Kitrae - Muff junkie
Big Muff Page
http://bigmuffpage.com/
Tonbender Timeline
http://www.bigmuffpage.com/The_Tonebender_Timeline.html
Big Muff Page
http://bigmuffpage.com/
Tonbender Timeline
http://www.bigmuffpage.com/The_Tonebender_Timeline.html
- monkeyxx
- Resistor Ronker
finally boxed up my MAYON... please don't mind the tribute artwork... I was particularly inspired by Marc's passion and had to do a sort of direct clone on this one. If I did it again I'd call it a "MAYON" and be funny about it. My finish came out just horrible. You can't use yella-toned poly over something you don't want to look yellad, and, you can't drill it either after the finish it chips like crazy. so here's my big fat mess (that still sounds great). the internal setup is a bit fucked as well...poor planning on my part, but, works fine. No room for a battery either. I am happy about my 5MM yellow LED, though, sets it all of so nicely. Time to get fuzzy on the guitar playing again, it's been a while. I swear to god those polished solid metal knobs will make any hunkajunk pedal look like diamonds. (Not in this photo, but, in person especially)
- tonymcbony
- Breadboard Brother
Hi all, just built this on a General Guitar Gadgets board that has been toasted a bit.
Seems to work well but I'm not sure if I'm getting quite enough fuzz and saturation from this. With full sustain it's certainly distortion with a bit of fuzz on the edges but I thought it would be a lot fuzzier. I used 5088's, and here are the voltages
Q1:
E: 24.9 mV
B: 0.32 V
C: 1.10 V
Q2
E: 39.4 mV
B: 0.49 V
C: 1.85 V
Q3:
E: 0.22 mV
B: 0.23 V
C: 1.09 V
Q4
E: 0.43 V
C: 0.52 V
B: 1.51 V
Methinks that Q4 isn't giving up the goods, any ideas here? Come to think of it, it doesn't seem to have much output past unity to maybe that's the problem?
Seems to work well but I'm not sure if I'm getting quite enough fuzz and saturation from this. With full sustain it's certainly distortion with a bit of fuzz on the edges but I thought it would be a lot fuzzier. I used 5088's, and here are the voltages
Q1:
E: 24.9 mV
B: 0.32 V
C: 1.10 V
Q2
E: 39.4 mV
B: 0.49 V
C: 1.85 V
Q3:
E: 0.22 mV
B: 0.23 V
C: 1.09 V
Q4
E: 0.43 V
C: 0.52 V
B: 1.51 V
Methinks that Q4 isn't giving up the goods, any ideas here? Come to think of it, it doesn't seem to have much output past unity to maybe that's the problem?
- Nocentelli
- Tube Twister
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Collectors on a Big muff are usually around 4.5 volts, all of yours seem low. What's your supply voltage?
modman wrote: ↑ Let's hope it's not a hit, because soldering up the same pedal everyday, is a sad life. It's that same ole devilish double bind again...
- tonymcbony
- Breadboard Brother
It's 9v at the input, once on the board it seems to be 5.58vNocentelli wrote:Collectors on a Big muff are usually around 4.5 volts, all of yours seem low. What's your supply voltage?
- Nocentelli
- Tube Twister
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- Has thanked: 1155 times
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Well, there you go. What is between the power jack and the board? Protection diode? Filter resistor and decoupling cap? Not sure how a diode or cap could cause such a voltage drop, but a 1k or 10k instead of 100 ohms maybe could.tonymcbony wrote:It's 9v at the input, once on the board it seems to be 5.58v
modman wrote: ↑ Let's hope it's not a hit, because soldering up the same pedal everyday, is a sad life. It's that same ole devilish double bind again...
- tonymcbony
- Breadboard Brother
There's nothing between the jack and the board, which is weird. Measured at certain spots on the board reads 9v so that's weird. Couldn't find any obvious culprits, nothing seems to be jumping out at me. This board has been through the wars a bit as it's a board I've modded many times, but everything seems to function as expected, just not the right output from the transistorsNocentelli wrote:Well, there you go. What is between the power jack and the board? Protection diode? Filter resistor and decoupling cap? Not sure how a diode or cap could cause such a voltage drop, but a 1k or 10k instead of 100 ohms maybe could.tonymcbony wrote:It's 9v at the input, once on the board it seems to be 5.58v
Will it be due to the difference of 5133 vs 5088 transistors?
- monkeyxx
- Resistor Ronker
check for shorts on the board or any exposed wires, even tiny fibers or tiny dabs of solder can create a short. make sure the board and the soldering are really clean. Look really closely when inspecting, maybe with magnification.
- KindaFuzzy
- Degoop Doctor
Here's mine, like it on the scooped side, so dropped the switch, and added a touch of mids to the scooped setting. My favorite skreddy muff. used 2n5089s and sounds wicked.
- KindaFuzzy
- Degoop Doctor
Like this:monkeyxx wrote:I don't know how you fit a big muff in that tiny enclosure but...hell yeah!
KindaFuzzy, that is one impressive and neat build
You obviously put a lot of time and effort into making such a super job in the small pedal - definitely inspiring.
I'll definitely have to work on my wiring a bit more
You obviously put a lot of time and effort into making such a super job in the small pedal - definitely inspiring.
I'll definitely have to work on my wiring a bit more