Zvex - Box of Metal [traced]
- rcustoms
- Resistor Ronker
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[quote="Wlat"]Hi!
It's been a while since I started working on the noise gate. Somehow life got in the way...
Anyway, I'm at it again and started to use Eagle now for a pcb. I took Madbean's excellent layout as a basis (hope that's allright?) but I'm still having a bit of trouble getting the noise gate parts neatly without to much "spaghetti".
Here's my layout so far [unverified]: Does anyone have a tip for getting a better layout?
Thanks,
Wlat[/quote
send me teh eagle files and i help you to optimaze
It's been a while since I started working on the noise gate. Somehow life got in the way...
Anyway, I'm at it again and started to use Eagle now for a pcb. I took Madbean's excellent layout as a basis (hope that's allright?) but I'm still having a bit of trouble getting the noise gate parts neatly without to much "spaghetti".
Here's my layout so far [unverified]: Does anyone have a tip for getting a better layout?
Thanks,
Wlat[/quote
send me teh eagle files and i help you to optimaze
Hi Wlat.Wlat wrote:View my posts of feb 2011 and feb 2012 (both page . Alas, not verified yet. I'm having trouble finding time to complete this project...served wrote:Hi,
Do you have a schematic with the original Gate control around?
I already built the BOM but now I feel like there is too much noise in this pedal. Is there a way to add a Gate function to the pedal?
How complicated is it? Does any one have a glue how Zvex made it?
Greetings,
Wlat
Thank you for this!
Actually I think I was ignoring your post because I first thought that you are creating something new and that Zvex didn't do it that complicated. I was more thinking that it will look like Fuzz Factory Gate. But its a good thing you have going on there.
I think I will put it on a sepparate PCB. And will use your schematic.
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- Posts: 2
- Joined: 24 Dec 2012, 00:51
- my favorite amplifier: Roland JC120
- Location: Argentina
Hi all,
Kind of reviving an old thread, I chose this pedal as my first build and I'm quite happy with the results, no issues so far.
However, I'm not that happy with the eq section, I find it quite heavy and undefined on low frequencies. Have you tried doing any mods to the tone stack?, any recomendations would be greately appreciated.
Best Regards,
Emanuel.
Kind of reviving an old thread, I chose this pedal as my first build and I'm quite happy with the results, no issues so far.
However, I'm not that happy with the eq section, I find it quite heavy and undefined on low frequencies. Have you tried doing any mods to the tone stack?, any recomendations would be greately appreciated.
Best Regards,
Emanuel.
Few ideas on here:internalevidence wrote:Hi all,
Kind of reviving an old thread, I chose this pedal as my first build and I'm quite happy with the results, no issues so far.
However, I'm not that happy with the eq section, I find it quite heavy and undefined on low frequencies. Have you tried doing any mods to the tone stack?, any recomendations would be greately appreciated.
Best Regards,
Emanuel.
http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.ie/2012 ... metal.html
Information
Hi Wlat,Wlat wrote:
View my posts of feb 2011 and feb 2012 (both page . Alas, not verified yet. I'm having trouble finding time to complete this project...
Greetings,
Wlat
I have built the BOM on my on Vero Layout and the BOM part works great.
I have also built the Gate according to your schematic, but I can't get the J175 to switch the Effect on.
I have measured the LDR Part of the VTL5C9 and the resistance is changing as it should so the LED part seems to work fine, but the voltage changes on the Gate of the J175 do not make it switch the signal through. It is blocking the signal all the time.
Where did you find the idea to put the LDR between VCC and the gate of the J175?
Did you make any progress on the gate in the meantime?
Information
The Gate works!
I have finally made the gate work. I built the gate based on Wlats schematic, but I wired the J175 switching FET that it connects the output signal to ground when it is closed (no voltage on Gate) and cuts this connection - i.e. allows the signal top go to the output - when it opens. The gate voltage comes from the resistor side of the VTL5C9.
I might need to do some experimenting and fine-tuning, but it seems to work this way.
I have finally made the gate work. I built the gate based on Wlats schematic, but I wired the J175 switching FET that it connects the output signal to ground when it is closed (no voltage on Gate) and cuts this connection - i.e. allows the signal top go to the output - when it opens. The gate voltage comes from the resistor side of the VTL5C9.
I might need to do some experimenting and fine-tuning, but it seems to work this way.
- Attachments
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- FetSwitch.png (7.51 KiB) Viewed 3146 times
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..... and the Gate footswitch can be wired to cut the connection between the J175 and the Volume Pot.
Information
OK - here's the whole thing as I have build it.
It works – but please leave comments and recommend improvements.
I have used daughter boards because I have built the gate after the BOM - for the next version I'll come up with a one-board layout.
I could not get a TLE2426 so I used an Opamp as a rail splitter. All it does is produce 1/2Vcc – I guess a simple voltage divider would have also done the trick.
I changed the gate pot to B250K - you could even use a 100K or a C250K. With a 500K – only the range between 2 and 5 o clock is really usable otherwise the gate will cut off everything but hard strumming. I also omitted the 15K (R27) in Wlat's schematic. This way the gate pot is connected directly to ½ VCC and at 5 o clock the gate will let a note ring almost to its natural death. The rest of the pot range is only useful if you have any noisy pedals before the BOM.
The gate picks its trigger signal directly from the input which makes it a very fast opening, but also a very fast closing gate - very effective. I used a 3PDT switch for the Gate switch so I can cut the connection between D of Q7 and the Vol pot, use one pole for switching the gate LED and use the third pole for cutting off the input for the gate circuit. This way, when the gate is off, the signal runs only through the BOM.
Despite the three boards, the boards are pretty compact so everything fits in a size B enclosure. Pay attention to the cuts under some of the resistors and ICs.
R8 and R9 share a hole (black ring).
I could not find a proper symbol for the VTL in the program so I used an IC symbol – Pins 1 and 2 on the left are the LED Pins and the pins on the right are the Resistor pins.
R38 is now 1M - I have experimented a little and this value seems to keep the gate open the longest.
You can experiment with C19 – it affects the way the gate closes. The lower the values the more stutter you get.
You can replace the R34 trimmer with a 1K - it does not make much difference anyway. Actually I am not sure why there is a trim pot in the schematic.
The orange, red and black track markings on the boards are for orientation purposes only. Black is ground, red is Vcc and orange is Vr (1/2Vcc).
I usually draw these on my board with a felt pen - makes building easier.
I left out the LED and switch wiring - you should be able to figure this out by yourself. Another question:
Does anyone else experience problems with the Mid control. It seems not to do much at all and it seems to cut the mids when turned fully clockwise.
This is almost a standard Marshall tonestack - only R22 and C8 are different.
I put Pin 3 of the Mid pot against ground and Pin 1 goes to Pin 1 on the Bass pot - this is correct, isn't it?
It works – but please leave comments and recommend improvements.
I have used daughter boards because I have built the gate after the BOM - for the next version I'll come up with a one-board layout.
I could not get a TLE2426 so I used an Opamp as a rail splitter. All it does is produce 1/2Vcc – I guess a simple voltage divider would have also done the trick.
I changed the gate pot to B250K - you could even use a 100K or a C250K. With a 500K – only the range between 2 and 5 o clock is really usable otherwise the gate will cut off everything but hard strumming. I also omitted the 15K (R27) in Wlat's schematic. This way the gate pot is connected directly to ½ VCC and at 5 o clock the gate will let a note ring almost to its natural death. The rest of the pot range is only useful if you have any noisy pedals before the BOM.
The gate picks its trigger signal directly from the input which makes it a very fast opening, but also a very fast closing gate - very effective. I used a 3PDT switch for the Gate switch so I can cut the connection between D of Q7 and the Vol pot, use one pole for switching the gate LED and use the third pole for cutting off the input for the gate circuit. This way, when the gate is off, the signal runs only through the BOM.
Despite the three boards, the boards are pretty compact so everything fits in a size B enclosure. Pay attention to the cuts under some of the resistors and ICs.
R8 and R9 share a hole (black ring).
I could not find a proper symbol for the VTL in the program so I used an IC symbol – Pins 1 and 2 on the left are the LED Pins and the pins on the right are the Resistor pins.
R38 is now 1M - I have experimented a little and this value seems to keep the gate open the longest.
You can experiment with C19 – it affects the way the gate closes. The lower the values the more stutter you get.
You can replace the R34 trimmer with a 1K - it does not make much difference anyway. Actually I am not sure why there is a trim pot in the schematic.
The orange, red and black track markings on the boards are for orientation purposes only. Black is ground, red is Vcc and orange is Vr (1/2Vcc).
I usually draw these on my board with a felt pen - makes building easier.
I left out the LED and switch wiring - you should be able to figure this out by yourself. Another question:
Does anyone else experience problems with the Mid control. It seems not to do much at all and it seems to cut the mids when turned fully clockwise.
This is almost a standard Marshall tonestack - only R22 and C8 are different.
I put Pin 3 of the Mid pot against ground and Pin 1 goes to Pin 1 on the Bass pot - this is correct, isn't it?
Information
Thank you , but that was not what I meant. The Mid increase when I turn clockwise, but they decrease again when the pot is fully turned to the 5 O clock position.
So, hey all! This is my first post.
I'm into this pedal at the moment. Keen to know exactly whats going on with it.
Has anyone got a completed whole schematic of this (including the gate, not necessarily including the switches and LED's etc....just a good looking schem)...??
That would be big fat Oprah tits if you did.
Thanks guys!!
I'm into this pedal at the moment. Keen to know exactly whats going on with it.
Has anyone got a completed whole schematic of this (including the gate, not necessarily including the switches and LED's etc....just a good looking schem)...??
That would be big fat Oprah tits if you did.
Thanks guys!!