All-Star Reverb [documentation]
- audioguy
- Resistor Ronker
This sounds super cool... is there an etchable layout floating around? I saw a couple of invalid images early in the thread, and a vero, but not anything etch-ready.
Thanks for the awesome work!
Thanks for the awesome work!
Hi, So I put a stock one on the in side, with the output wire from that going into the input spot of the second board with the wetter mod. I get a pop when the in side is activated, but not when the second side is activated. The board didn't pop when it was on its own, but it is now. Do you know of any tricks to get this to stop? Thanks for all your help!induction wrote: The simplest thing to do would be to feed the output of one circuit to the input of the other, just as if they were in two separate boxes, except the connection between them is hardwired. It should be very easy to do, but let me know if you need more detailed instructions.
- induction
- Resistor Ronker
Regarding switch pops, I can think if three likely possibilities (in order of likelihood):
1. Since they're both wired for buffered bypass, the switching is achieved by connecting and disconnecting is the points marked A and B. You can get a pop if you have different DC voltages on those points during bypass. (This could happen if you forget to connect lug 3 of the bypass switch to Vref, and you connect it to ground or let it float instead.) Check the voltages on the switch with a DMM. All three lugs should be at about 4.5V, both engaged and bypassed. If you see a voltage difference between lugs 1 and 2 during bypass then you have found the culprit.
2. It could be a mechanical click from the switch. Try replacing it.
3. It could be the led. Try disconnecting it.
1. Since they're both wired for buffered bypass, the switching is achieved by connecting and disconnecting is the points marked A and B. You can get a pop if you have different DC voltages on those points during bypass. (This could happen if you forget to connect lug 3 of the bypass switch to Vref, and you connect it to ground or let it float instead.) Check the voltages on the switch with a DMM. All three lugs should be at about 4.5V, both engaged and bypassed. If you see a voltage difference between lugs 1 and 2 during bypass then you have found the culprit.
2. It could be a mechanical click from the switch. Try replacing it.
3. It could be the led. Try disconnecting it.
Thank you for the detailed response. You are a scholar and a gentleman. I had a cold solder joint on reverb 1, so it was working sometimes and not others. The voltage was jumping all over on the switch. Working like a champ now. Love having 2 of these in one box!
So here I am on my very first post resurrecting an old thread, great way to win friends and influence people right:)
I've never built a pedal nor am I an EE or technician, I've managed to repair a few pedals and amps though so I might give it a shot. I was hoping someone might have a BOM they'd already put together they'd share.
Thanks,
Rich
I've never built a pedal nor am I an EE or technician, I've managed to repair a few pedals and amps though so I might give it a shot. I was hoping someone might have a BOM they'd already put together they'd share.
Thanks,
Rich
I've just built this circuit and wow! Great work, Induction! This is a fantastic circuit and I'll be boxing it up this week, for sure. I was wondering if anyone had any ideas for a wet-mod switch. I'm racking my brain trying to figure out how to pull it off, and I think I've hit my noob-limit. I could use 3 DPDTs, of course, but are there alternatives to this? Thanks!