Diamond Bass Comp
- lohstah
- Solder Soldier
1M to ground after C15, true, added.
100K to .1µ blocking cap to ground after 47K5, true, added.
rest around LM358 should be as i have drawn, extra resistor crackerman mentioned is that 47K5 from 2 to 1 of opamp.
C26 and R31 swapped, i mentioned that above, but left the schematic as was, order of those 2 components should not make a difference ?
that resistor which is still puzzling is R37 and the reading seems weird, on guitar version is 1K5. maybe 4th ring is brown, meaning 1K, or first ring is grey, meaning 800R ?
updated schematic V1.2:
100K to .1µ blocking cap to ground after 47K5, true, added.
rest around LM358 should be as i have drawn, extra resistor crackerman mentioned is that 47K5 from 2 to 1 of opamp.
C26 and R31 swapped, i mentioned that above, but left the schematic as was, order of those 2 components should not make a difference ?
that resistor which is still puzzling is R37 and the reading seems weird, on guitar version is 1K5. maybe 4th ring is brown, meaning 1K, or first ring is grey, meaning 800R ?
updated schematic V1.2:
I built one modifying harald's vero. Everything is as on the schematic except I didn't change the red led section from the guitar version. Back to back I can't hear a difference to the stock one I have. I also can't see a diffence between the leds. I wish I had an answer for R37.
I'll build one of these as well. I'm quite happy with the Forest Green Compressor clone but you can never have too many I have some NSL-32 optos and a few roll-your-own LED+LDRs I tried in the FGC before the NSL-32. It seems that the original VTL5C3 vactrols are almost obsolete or very highly priced.
The potentiometer values are not shown in the schematic, I assume they are identical to the guitar version?
The potentiometer values are not shown in the schematic, I assume they are identical to the guitar version?
Exactly. Yes they arejsaily wrote:The potentiometer values are not shown in the schematic, I assume they are identical to the guitar version?
My unit is now completed and works nicely! I used an NSL-32 optocoupler, OPA2134, LM358, all 2N3904 BJTs, polyester and ceramic caps, 1% metal film resistors. The Sabrotone Diamond Compressor vero layout was easily modified for the bass compressor because there is enough space. Thanks a lot for tracing this excellent pedal!
I had a tri-colour led (red, green, blue) and wired up the correct cathodes R37 was 10k. The red led is quite bright but I guess it's designed that way. Green lights up when its compressing.lohstah wrote:great ! did you use a dual red/green led ? what value did you use for R37 ?
Hello,
Is there a final version of the schematic available for the bass comp?
I tried to build a Bill of Material for the bass version, based on the guitar version and I noticed what might be some 'rounding' in the values?
I realize some resistor values probably don't matter much if they're 1% or not, but since I'm at it.. I figure I might as well do it right.
Can someone verify if these are correct, and answer where I have "or" written to confirm which value it's supposed to be?
Looking forward to making a PCB for this one.
Dae.
Is there a final version of the schematic available for the bass comp?
I tried to build a Bill of Material for the bass version, based on the guitar version and I noticed what might be some 'rounding' in the values?
I realize some resistor values probably don't matter much if they're 1% or not, but since I'm at it.. I figure I might as well do it right.
Can someone verify if these are correct, and answer where I have "or" written to confirm which value it's supposed to be?
- Parts List:
Capacitors
Caps 2u2 and higher are electrolytic. C22/23/30/31/33 are ceramic, all other film
C1 220u
C2 47u
C3 47u
C4 4n7
C5 4n7
C6 4u7 Polarity?
C7 100n
C8 4u7 Polarity?
C9 100p
C10 820p
C11 100p
C12 820p
C13 2u2 Polarity?
C14 100p
C15 4u7 Polarity?
C16 820p
C17 100n
C18 820p
C19 10n
C20 10n
C21 2u2
C22 100n
C23 100n
C24 820p
C25 3n3
C26 15n
C27 15n
C28 4u7
C29 3n3
C30 100n
C31 100n
C33 100n
C34 15n (Switch C4)
C35 15n (Switch C5)
C36 100n (connected to R43)
Resistors
All metal film 1% except R1 which is carbon film 5%
R1 100R
R2 10K5
R3 10K5
R4 100R
R5 15K
R6 6k81
R7 22.1K or 22K ?
R9 15K
R10 47.5K
R11 47.5K
R12 47.5K
R13 47.5K
R15 1M
R16 475R
R17 475K
R18 475K or 470K ?
R19 4K7
R20 6k81
R21* 1M (connected to C15)
R22 100R
R23 475K or 470K ?
R24 22.1K or 22K ?
R25 100K
R26 1K
R27 3.32K or 3K3 ?
R28 475R or 470R ?
R29 221K or 220K ?
R30 475K or 470K ?
R31 100K
R32 221K or 220K ?
R33 150K
R34 475K or 470K ?
R35 470K or 475K?
R36 10K
R37 100R
R38 10K
R39 Jumper
R40 10K
R42 47k5 (pin 1 & 2 IC1A)
R43 100K (pin 2 IC1A to C36)
Transistors
Q1,Q3 MPSA18
Q2, Q4, Q8-9 2N5088
Q5-7 2N4401
IC1 LM358AN
IC2 OP275
LDR1 VTL5C3
D1, D3-D9 1N4148
D2 1N4004
LD1 5mm Bi-colour Red/Green Common Anode LED.
Pots
Comp A100K
EQ B50K
Vol B100K
Looking forward to making a PCB for this one.
Dae.
- lohstah
- Solder Soldier
V1.2 above is the latest and final version, crackerman used it to build a working clone, read his post above.
only question left was R37. but it is only in the status-led section and will not influence the sound. crackerman used the value of the guitar version for R37.
cheers,
lohstah
only question left was R37. but it is only in the status-led section and will not influence the sound. crackerman used the value of the guitar version for R37.
cheers,
lohstah
Ok but crackerman built using a modified Sabro vero, using these values, correct?lohstah wrote:V1.2 above is the latest and final version, crackerman used it to build a working clone, read his post above.
only question left was R37. but it is only in the status-led section and will not influence the sound. crackerman used the value of the guitar version for R37.
So all values on the v1.2 schematic have been verified? In particular R28... To me it looks exactly the same as R16 - 475R, used in the same way.
Is it just me or is the whole section for the green led (Q9,R40) kinda redundant? Couldn't just a single resistor do the same job, or am I missing something?
I assume the 4401s can be replaced by 3904s without any issue?
The schematic doesn't show the polarity for C6,C8,C13 & C15. I will need to make a schematic in order to make a PCB. If you like, I can post my finished schematic once I'm done.
Daemons
- lohstah
- Solder Soldier
ok folks, a little update.
i got another one in, and revisited those 4 resistors that were bugging us. they are definitely the values that crackerman posted.
6K81, 6K81, 150K and 100R.
yes, R37 is 100R. brown, black, black , black. and measures 100R as well.
cheers,
lohstah
i got another one in, and revisited those 4 resistors that were bugging us. they are definitely the values that crackerman posted.
6K81, 6K81, 150K and 100R.
yes, R37 is 100R. brown, black, black , black. and measures 100R as well.
cheers,
lohstah
R37 is (or should be) 10k... assuming you mean R37 as marked on the PCB. Did you remove it or measure it in circuit?lohstah wrote:ok folks, a little update.
i got another one in, and revisited those 4 resistors that were bugging us. they are definitely the values that crackerman posted.
6K81, 6K81, 150K and 100R.
yes, R37 is 100R. brown, black, black , black. and measures 100R as well.
cheers,
lohstah
Green is always on. Red should light up when it's compressing.jsaily wrote:Green lights up when its compressing.
Hi all!
I'm new to the forum, where I landed looking for quality schematics for bass effects. I came across the Diamond Compressor because my teacher has it, but it's way to expensive for me. I followed carefully all the posts in this topic trying to assess if this project is doable by me, so far I think it is
I tried to implement the modifications in the sabro vero by following the v 1.2 schematic, and I came up with this: It's been a long time since college, so I'm a bit rusty in complex circuits. I tried to separate the parts, so orange is for power, yellow for compression net, and pink for eq section (more or less i think so).
I didn't think it was easy to modify but I took the challenge. The modifications I've made include the 1Mohm resistor to ground in series with C25, the 47k5Ohm resistor in series with the 0.1 F capacitor on IC1A, the inclusion of C2, as well as the 15nF capacitors in parallell with C4 and C5.
I don't see any elegant way of including the 1N4004 diode in the power section without adding a extra column to the vero.
I would apreciate if any of the builders find time to take a look to the file and feel free to make suggestions. I would like to produce a better vero model entirely adapted to bass, since is not easy to find quality bass stuff out there.
I'm new to the forum, where I landed looking for quality schematics for bass effects. I came across the Diamond Compressor because my teacher has it, but it's way to expensive for me. I followed carefully all the posts in this topic trying to assess if this project is doable by me, so far I think it is
I tried to implement the modifications in the sabro vero by following the v 1.2 schematic, and I came up with this: It's been a long time since college, so I'm a bit rusty in complex circuits. I tried to separate the parts, so orange is for power, yellow for compression net, and pink for eq section (more or less i think so).
I didn't think it was easy to modify but I took the challenge. The modifications I've made include the 1Mohm resistor to ground in series with C25, the 47k5Ohm resistor in series with the 0.1 F capacitor on IC1A, the inclusion of C2, as well as the 15nF capacitors in parallell with C4 and C5.
I don't see any elegant way of including the 1N4004 diode in the power section without adding a extra column to the vero.
I would apreciate if any of the builders find time to take a look to the file and feel free to make suggestions. I would like to produce a better vero model entirely adapted to bass, since is not easy to find quality bass stuff out there.
Found this online. The bass version is mostly correct. Q3 should be a MPSA18. Maybe a thing, or two else is wrong.
http://lectric-fx.com/product/zirconia- ... sor-v-1-1/
http://lectric-fx.com/product/zirconia- ... sor-v-1-1/
Who doubted me!!! Just kidding. Sorry that I haven't been on in awhile..school has been killer.lohstah wrote:ok folks, a little update.
i got another one in, and revisited those 4 resistors that were bugging us. they are definitely the values that crackerman posted.
6K81, 6K81, 150K and 100R.
yes, R37 is 100R. brown, black, black , black. and measures 100R as well.
cheers,
lohstah
I rounded up the differences with the diamond, and lectric-fx pcb:
Q3 should be another MPSA18, Q4 should be a 2N5088, Q5/Q6/Q7 should be 2N4401, a 1M ohm resistor to ground needs added between C15-R25, IC1.1 needs to be modified to have 47.5k ohms between 2-1, 100k ohms from 2 to a 0.1u capacitor to ground (non-inverting gain of 1+ rf/ri -> 1+0.5).
Another thing is that the maker entirely omitted the bicolor LED ckt. It would still save someone hours, and hours....
I emailed the maker the differences. We’ll see what they say.
My job.
https://www.taydaelectronics.com/hardwa ... osure.html
Signal capacitors WIMA FKP2 and MP4
There are some deviations from the scheme published here. R6 (6k8 according to the scheme) used 100k, because the green LED was much brighter than red and the operation indication was not correct. C26 and R31 are interchanged. There are still large deviations in the supply chain. All this can be seen on the board file.
Моя работа на русскоязычном форуме вот тут http://guitar-gear.ru/forum/topic/5975- ... ompressor/
PCB File
The case was used from here Signal capacitors WIMA FKP2 and MP4
There are some deviations from the scheme published here. R6 (6k8 according to the scheme) used 100k, because the green LED was much brighter than red and the operation indication was not correct. C26 and R31 are interchanged. There are still large deviations in the supply chain. All this can be seen on the board file.
Моя работа на русскоязычном форуме вот тут http://guitar-gear.ru/forum/topic/5975- ... ompressor/