Dirk_Hendrik wrote:No. It's more a "jazzy" sound.
I meant the "POP" sound (as of "popcorn") cause by sudden change in induction of the circuit during switching.
Does it happens during switching after the True-bypass mod?
Dirk_Hendrik wrote:No. It's more a "jazzy" sound.
And also later on the second page:Dirk_Hendrik wrote:jepz. 3 that is. One on the dry out as well.flood wrote:on a first glance... all one has to do is lift the two 2n2 caps at the input and output buffers?
And, if you wanna do it really corksniffin correct, replace the 220 ohms with one 470 ohm.
I also noted myself that there is a resistor on the input of the V2 called R31 with a value of 220 not available on the reissue.goonierat wrote:
So far nobody has mentioned the differences in C8 and C9 - can anyone explain this? (in layman's terms - i'm not a techie).
Answering myself... I undid all the modifications and found the answer along the way.NiLaceBand wrote:Not really worried as I always has used the pedal with the pot at 10 and now it sounds clearly better, but I'm a little bit annoyed by it. The dry signal that is mixed with the depth know seems to be quieter now and I don't understand if this should be expected after the mod (and then I don't understand why). Or should I undo the mod step by step?
Hello, I need help to understand this post. This confuse me a bit.NiLaceBand wrote: ↑11 May 2018, 21:25 Well, not a broken WH10 (yet) but I'm in need of a little advice.
I followed the schematic for the true bypass mod. Comparing Dirk's schematics of the original WH10 and the reissue I decided to remove the two 2n2 resistors and replace it with a single 470R resistor in R1 and R22 along with the cap removal.
The reason for this is not so much as to get as close as possible as the original (I'm pretty sure I can't hear it but to use the R31 and R30 holes for the true bypass switching.
Soldered the existing switch cables to pins 4 and 5 of the 3PDT and used the in output/input of the jacks available in the holes of r31 and R30 in pins 2 and 8 of the 3PDT (and the other available spots for 1 and 7).
Works very well as far as switching goes but what is confusing me is that before the mod the depth mod was almost unusable, having it fully CCW was such a big boost I was considering adding a volume pot in the dry out jack space, but after this modifications, the same position of the depth know is boosting the signal just right above "unity gain" (whatever that meas on a wah). Turning the pot fully CW has the opposite effect, attenuates the signal a little bit.
Not really worried as I always has used the pedal with the pot at 10 and now it sounds clearly better, but I'm a little bit annoyed by it. The dry signal that is mixed with the depth know seems to be quieter now and I don't understand if this should be expected after the mod (and then I don't understand why). Or should I undo the mod step by step?
Can anyone share some wisdom with this, please?
Why he talks about the absence of buffer in front? Seeing the input part modification the buffer is not excluded, right? Excpet in bypass, being a true bypass mod.NiLaceBand wrote: ↑12 May 2018, 19:27 Answering myself... I undid all the modifications and found the answer along the way.
The stock pedal without a buffer in front of it produces a significative volume loss. The boost that goes with the level knob works wonders in that situation. As soon as the output level of the True Bypass can be compared with the volume level with the effect engaged, the pot beyond 12 makes a noticeable but not massive signal boost (as I would expect).
Just quoting myself in case somebody finds himself in the same situation after converting the pedal to TBP and starts wondering "Why is not boosting so much as before the mod?"