Fulltone - 2B [traced]
- Bside2234
- Resistor Ronker
I have one of these here for a week or so. I'm kind of working on a schematic but any help would be appreciated. I'll take pics of anything you want and try and help with any values/info you need.
Here are some pics. If there is interest in this I will continue with the schematic and post it. Don't really want to post a unverified, unfinished schematic. I'll try and post some values later.
Here are some pics. If there is interest in this I will continue with the schematic and post it. Don't really want to post a unverified, unfinished schematic. I'll try and post some values later.
- Bside2234
- Resistor Ronker
Here are the values I came up with. I think I got everything. If not, let me know and I'll get it. The IC is sanded so I don't know what it is. It's a single op-amp. I don't see any value markings on the Gain pot.
R1 10K
R7 3M3
R15 10K
R20 3M3
R22 10K
R23 10K
R26 100E
R27 100K
R29 4K7
R30 1K
C? 0.1uF (Bigger reddish cap in the middle. No reference that I can see)
C7 100uF/25v
C13 100uF/25v
C14 10u/35v
C15 10uF/35v
C16 100pF
D3 1N4005
D4 1N5818
D5 5mm LED
D9 1N750A
D13 Germ
D14 Germ
U3 ? Sanded Single Op-Amp
Q4 BS250
DYNAMICS B-250K
GAIN ? Measures 60K In Circuit
R1 10K
R7 3M3
R15 10K
R20 3M3
R22 10K
R23 10K
R26 100E
R27 100K
R29 4K7
R30 1K
C? 0.1uF (Bigger reddish cap in the middle. No reference that I can see)
C7 100uF/25v
C13 100uF/25v
C14 10u/35v
C15 10uF/35v
C16 100pF
D3 1N4005
D4 1N5818
D5 5mm LED
D9 1N750A
D13 Germ
D14 Germ
U3 ? Sanded Single Op-Amp
Q4 BS250
DYNAMICS B-250K
GAIN ? Measures 60K In Circuit
- Bside2234
- Resistor Ronker
Here's the schematic. Maybe this will spark more interest in this. I'm pretty sure it's correct but I have the pedal for a few more days so if you have any doubts/questions I'll check them.
- Intripped
- Cap Cooler
Hey, thanks for your work!
the gain pot value: you should be able to measure it, if you lift one end of R30; but I see they have bent the legs of all components under the PCB, and this could result in some complications in the desoldering process.
You could try and unbend the component legs while desoldering, but probably the safest way is to just cut the legs and then use a new resistor.
Good to know, that this pedal is not true bypass, and that it becomes a buffer when bypassed.
A nice test that you could make, is to hear and evaluate the "transparency" (or tonal influence) of this buffer.
the gain pot value: you should be able to measure it, if you lift one end of R30; but I see they have bent the legs of all components under the PCB, and this could result in some complications in the desoldering process.
You could try and unbend the component legs while desoldering, but probably the safest way is to just cut the legs and then use a new resistor.
Good to know, that this pedal is not true bypass, and that it becomes a buffer when bypassed.
A nice test that you could make, is to hear and evaluate the "transparency" (or tonal influence) of this buffer.
- Bside2234
- Resistor Ronker
It's not my pedal so I didn't really want to mess with it too much. I'll see if I can lift the leg of that resistor and see what I measure. It didn't seem like there was much resistance in series or parallel with it so I didn't think too bother too muchIntripped wrote:Hey, thanks for your work!
the gain pot value: you should be able to measure it, if you lift one end of R30; but I see they have bent the legs of all components under the PCB, and this could result in some complications in the desoldering process.
You could try and unbend the component legs while desoldering, but probably the safest way is to just cut the legs and then use a new resistor.
Good to know, that this pedal is not true bypass, and that it becomes a buffer when bypassed.
A nice test that you could make, is to hear and evaluate the "transparency" (or tonal influence) of this buffer.
with it.
- Intripped
- Cap Cooler
Pay attention, you could damage the PCB, because of that bent leg.Bside2234 wrote: It's not my pedal so I didn't really want to mess with it too much. I'll see if I can lift the leg of that resistor and see what I measure. It didn't seem like there was much resistance in series or parallel with it so I didn't think too bother too much
with it.
Resistor substitution it's the safest way, if you really want to do it.
- Bside2234
- Resistor Ronker
Not familiar with the 2072C. Is that the TLE2072? Link to a datasheet?ahauser wrote:I had a look in the FD 3 as the boost is apparently the same. The 2 ICs in it are
2072C and AD711J
It has a texas Instruments logo on it so im assuming its this one.
http://www.ti.com/product/TLE2072
http://www.ti.com/product/TLE2072
- Bside2234
- Resistor Ronker
So then we can assume the 2B uses the AD711J since it's a single op-amp in there and the TLE2072 is a dual.ahauser wrote:It has a texas Instruments logo on it so im assuming its this one.
http://www.ti.com/product/TLE2072
- Bside2234
- Resistor Ronker
I would assume any 4.7v would work in this application. For reference the 1N750 is a 0.5W/4.7V zener diode. I'd probably start with a 1N34A for the Germanium diodes. Probably socket them and see if there is any difference between others.ahauser wrote:Hi BSide,
Re the IN750A diodes can I substitute with a 4.7V IN5230B? I cant find any IN750A's.
Also what do you suggest for the Germanuim Diodes?
Adrian