Keeley - Katana

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rocklander
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Post by rocklander »

I did a search and saw the thread where Bajaman posted this link to a schematic, so I'm not sure if it actually is the keeley katana or not (the schem suggests it's similar?) so verification would be cool if anyone can do/has a real one?

based on it I ran it into eagle and came up with this schem/pcb/overlay. totally unverified, and I don't have any software to check it.. anyone here have that? will have a go at breadbording it, but waiting on some parts from overseas :(

anyway... very new to the eagle schem->pcb stuff so I'd be delighted for anyone to share their comments/corrections/suggestions on it.
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Post by JHS »

No it's not the Katana boost, it'a DIY project from a magazine. For better tone swap the MPSA18 for a BC413C.
IMHO the Katana is not that different from this booster.

JHS

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Post by soulsonic »

I would get that Drain trimmer OUTTA THERE! and just have a fixed resistor of about 4K7 on the Drain. I would put the biasing trimmer on the Source where it belongs... i.e.; replace R2 with the 5K trimmer. Other than that, it looks okay; I'd maybe try to squeeze things tighter together in the PCB layout.
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Post by rocklander »

soulsonic wrote:I would get that Drain trimmer OUTTA THERE! and just have a fixed resistor of about 4K7 on the Drain. I would put the biasing trimmer on the Source where it belongs... i.e.; replace R2 with the 5K trimmer.
okay - I'll make those changes tonight at home - thanks
soulsonic wrote:Other than that, it looks okay; I'd maybe try to squeeze things tighter together in the PCB layout.
yeh, like I said, pretty new at this eagle, and it was past my bedtime when I got to this stage :D , but I agree I need to tighten it up on the PCB, thanks...
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Post by rocklander »

JHS wrote:No it's not the Katana boost, it'a DIY project from a magazine. For better tone swap the MPSA18 for a BC413C.
IMHO the Katana is not that different from this booster.

JHS
so besides the BC413 what else would you suggest?
I'm hoping you say something I have already :wink: or something that futurlec.com.au stocks cos I want to get some MAX1044's from them in the same order (can't find any other australasian distributor that has max1044 unless they're smd which wont work for a ham fisted meat axe like me :lol: )
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Post by JimiB »

I have some really good pics of a Katana if anyone is interested I will post them. I would love to get this r.e.'d as it a killer boost

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Post by rocklander »

JimiB wrote:I have some really good pics of a Katana if anyone is interested I will post them. I would love to get this r.e.'d as it a killer boost
do it! I'm happy to have a go, then somebody can tell me what I did wrong :lol:
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Post by eleanor296 »

bring on the photographs! I want to know what's in there too!

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Post by JimiB »

pics
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Post by JimiB »

more pics
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Post by rocklander »

you beauty! any chance you could ID the transistors?
I'll have a go (my first) at this .. and see what I can get right...
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Post by rocklander »

okay, so here's a quick overlay before I try to RE anything... there's a few spots I can't quite make out.

any chance you could clarify (or take pics with different light on) the areas I've highlighted in orange? there's 5 of them with orange arrows pointing at them
the red trace is the component side trace, yellow is offboard wiring.
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Post by JimiB »

this is my only other gut shot - if higher rez would help on the other 2 I could crop a little or email them to ya full size. I am also goon post a scan of my notes. I just ran out of time on this (and everything else fun for the last 6 months but I am almost done with the nightmare project)
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Post by JimiB »

cropped guts
see if that helps - I didn't size em down so that should be full rez.
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Post by rocklander »

thanks JimiB. I will keep at it.
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Post by soulsonic »

We can assume from what's going on here that the MAX1044 is being used as a voltage doubler... but there are details I can't see well, and some stuff looks strange - like the negative voltage output of the chip (pin 5) is being shorted to ground; that doesn't seem good, but maybe it's not actually shorted to ground but is instead acting as a floating ground for the rest of he circuit to give a wider possible voltage swing? :hmmm:
it's hard to tell without being able to see all the tracks.
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Post by JimiB »

what do we need to see better? I will see if I can figure it out - or get more pics or something

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Post by soulsonic »

It would be nice to be able to see the component side of the board from the opposite angle; there are details of the board surface that are hidden behind components right now. A shot straight on from above would be nice, and shot with no flash would be super.

How have you come along with it, Rocklander? I haven't been tracing it, just looking to make sure all the details are there.
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Post by rocklander »

to be honest.. pretty poorly. I can post the eagle schem I have so far, but it's not connected up really.. just kinda three parts I can see that do connect.

that particular pot is confusing me too cos it has like 9 lugs I can see do it's not just a double gang is it.. not sure what component to put in there from eagle :oops:

like I said, I have a basic start that I could put up so far in case anyone can add improvements or see bits I can't? lemme know.

[edit] bugger it, I'll post what I have in case it of use at all, but in need of a LOT of work so far
(I just need to add the actual *sch file, right? don't need al the #number files too?)[/edit]
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Post by JimiB »

the pot is a dual gang push pull. the pull "clipping" mode dosent sound good to me so I don't care about that bit myself.

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