Emma - Reezafratzitz [ goop-alarm ]  [traced]

General documentation, gut shot, schematic links, ongoing circuit tracing, deep thoughts ... all about boutique stompboxes.
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4rockandroll4
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Post by 4rockandroll4 »

Does anyone know wich values to change for more mids?

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briggs
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Post by briggs »

Last day worth of posts sent to big cat fight - continue there with pleasure :thumbsup
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lolbou
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Post by lolbou »

Nice moderating briggs :thumbsup

But my question remains (you move it too): did anyone tried an other IC from the one used by Kantul?

Thank you... :D
- Are you a mod or a rocker?
- Uh, no, I'm a mocker.

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puppiesonacid
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Post by puppiesonacid »

i have to say, what a stupid name for a pedal. even DOD had better names. just goes to show ya, how unoriginal this thing is.

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briggs
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Post by briggs »

I just built this up on my breadboard and - - - - I love it! I really really do! If anyone is looking for a distortion box that is a little different from the rest - here it is. I love the big, "marshallesqe" tones I got out of this thing, perfect for some nice noisy Oasis tunes 8) The bias control is mucho useful too, now I want to play with it and modify it to make it even better :wink:
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lolbou
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Post by lolbou »

Same IC briggs?
- Are you a mod or a rocker?
- Uh, no, I'm a mocker.

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miwanone
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Post by miwanone »

Any tips and tricks for an Eagle beginner? I've drawn up the schematic posted earlier in this thread, and I'm trying to make a nice PCB. All the airwires are making me crazy, isn't there an auto-move/rotate function? The auto-route is nice, but it won't work good enough unless you do the moving and rotating manually...


Oh I forgot, the schematic:

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lautmaschine
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Post by lautmaschine »

miwanone wrote:Any tips and tricks for an Eagle beginner? I've drawn up the schematic posted earlier in this thread, and I'm trying to make a nice PCB. All the airwires are making me crazy, isn't there an auto-move/rotate function? The auto-route is nice, but it won't work good enough unless you do the moving and rotating manually...
Check out gaussmarkov's site. He has some useful tips on PCB design using Eagle. I usually arrange the components roughly in order of the schematic, then rotate and position them in ways that minimize 'airwire' tangling. Using the autorouter is okay, as along as you're prepared to to rip it up and reposition components several times.

My advice would be to start with a simpler schematic than this one.

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miwanone
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Post by miwanone »

I spent a few hours figuring some things out, I ended up with this. 1200dpi, layout and ready to transfer.

UNVERIFIED

Layout:
https://img516.imageshack.us/img516/760/layoutv.png

Ready for transfer:
https://img264.imageshack.us/img264/525 ... toetch.png

Parts list:

Partslist ReezaFRATzitz

R
1 100k
2 100k
3 120
4 120
5 2k2
6 10k
7 100k
8 470k
9 22k
10 470k
11 22k
12 27k
13 1M
14 470k
15 10k
16 150k
17 1M
18 150k
19 10k
20 470k
21 22k
22 100k
23 100k
24 100k
25 1M
26 470k
27 470k
28 10k
29 1M
30 22k

C
1 6n8
2 47n
3 250n
4 150n
5 6n8
6 47p
7 47p
8 47p
9 47p
10 150n
11 47p
12 100p
13 47n
14 1n
15 1n
16 150n
17 100p
18 6n8
19 6n8


C(elco)
1 100u
2 100u
3 100u

VR's
1 10k lin (bias)
2 500k lin (gain)
3 500k lin (level)
4 500k lin (tone)

Q
1 NPN

IC
IC1 unknown, probably CD4049 or 74HCU04


EDIT: large images screwing up the layout of the forum... :slap:

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marshmellow
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Post by marshmellow »

- There are several jumpers you could avoid by better placing the components. For example: C15/C16, R21, C13, R1/R3.
- Use thicker traces. Type "display" and unselect everything except the traces. Then "change width" (16 or 24 mil should be fine), "group", select all the traces, hold control while right clicking on one of the traces. Now you've changed width for all the traces.
- You could save MUCH space on the board by arranging the components tighter.
- Make it look more "aesthetically pleasing": general guideline is to only use angles of 45°. The components are laid out pretty regularly already. Avoid unnecessary traces, make it look nicer (eg around C6 or C11).


Did you use the DRC? And as already mentioned: I would use a simpler circuit to get used to Eagle, but you did quite well for a first one :wink: (at least it looks like it should be working..)

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Post by JiM »

As i said before, i can send the eagle files (incl. schematic) that i've done for the vero layout, to anybody asking kindly :wink:
Your layout is cool, but i've spotted an error : the output pad goes straight to ground !
Just a small ground pour problem i guess ...

You can swap R16 and R25 for easier routing.
You don't need a jumper from R14 to R30, a regular trace is OK.
Likewise, R4 can go between R1 and R2, and you don't need the jumper from R2 to R3.
BTW, i prefer when all the diagonal traces are at 45°, it looks neater to me.

Eagle takes some time to master, but then you can do great layouts quickly !
I also recommand gaussmarkov for tutorials and a great parts library dedicated to stompboxes.
There are also good stuff about Eagle at http://www.sparkfun.com, esp. a keyboard-shortcuts file.

Keep on experimenting ! :thumbsup
I only give negative feedback.

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miwanone
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Post by miwanone »

Thanks for checking my pcb! I've done this one just for practice (I own a reeza, haha) so I guess I won't be spending much more time on it. I've used most of the things you pointed out, so I've got only 4 jumpers left and no 'output to ground'problem ;-)

I'll be practicing much more with other schematic's, I love the idea of being able to design my own pcb's... :lol:

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audioguy
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Post by audioguy »

Did you ever get the layout working?

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miwanone
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Post by miwanone »

I never tried it, but I did correct some issues. The latest files are those two:

https://img154.imageshack.us/img154/4572/layoutk.png
https://img522.imageshack.us/img522/92/ ... ansfer.png

It should be working correctly.

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audioguy
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Post by audioguy »

Looking at the layout file I can see you've got some issues with the ground and the switch in the lower corner- looks like you've got the lug of the switch that goes to the out put also going to ground.
Additionally- Im assuming the switch is for the up/down function?

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miwanone
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Post by miwanone »

Ground issue solved, I have no idea why that wire was drawn. :scratch: The switch is the bypass-switch, there is no up/down-switch on a reezafratzitz. The 3 lugs on the left are for the LED switching (very simple) and the lugs on the right switch the output to either the clean or the processed signal.

https://img17.imageshack.us/img17/92/re ... ansfer.png
https://img10.imageshack.us/img10/1827/layoutzaw.png

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gtrplaya101
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Post by gtrplaya101 »

Verified?

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audioguy
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Post by audioguy »

miwanone wrote:Ground issue solved, I have no idea why that wire was drawn. :scratch: The switch is the bypass-switch, there is no up/down-switch on a reezafratzitz. The 3 lugs on the left are for the LED switching (very simple) and the lugs on the right switch the output to either the clean or the processed signal.
oh man for some reason I thought it was their envelope filter! hehehe Im a dumbass

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miwanone
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Post by miwanone »

Not verified yet!

Haha, I think their envelope filter is called onomatopeia.. :scratch:

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gtrplaya101
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Post by gtrplaya101 »

I'd be willing to try it if all agree that it looks right on paper. However is there anyway you could beef up those solder pads a bit? To etch pads that fine will be difficult. Thanks

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