Sola Sound - Tonebender Mark II Professional  [schematic]

Discussion regarding early stompbox technology: 1960-1975 Please keep discussion focused and contribute what info you have...
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phibes
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Post by phibes »

Go nuts. Not verified but I don't see any errors.

Fuzzcentral also mentions to bias the Benders to 4.5v. I'm sure that threw a lot of people off.
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Post by jrod »

Terrific!

Thanks, phibes!

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Post by Kregg »

I love these MK circuits.
I have to say if you ever want to nail the purple haze solo try a Fulltone Ultimate Octave.

Not to digress, but, after reading this thread from the beginning I do think that Jimi used a Fuze Face.
The bad thing about FF's is that you've got to audition an entire batch before you find one that sounds like the one, or the last one for that matter.
Also, use a cheap non-alkaline 9v battery to get that vintage "sag" (unleaded will work okay).
By the way, fuzz's are the only pedals in which I use batteries.
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Post by mcaviel »

Hi there phibes,
Thanks for the vero,
I couldn't understand from the vero why we have two Ground +, where is the output and what are the value of the Potentiometers.

Thanks for your help.

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phibes
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Post by phibes »

mcaviel wrote:Hi there phibes,
Thanks for the vero,
I couldn't understand from the vero why we have two Ground +, where is the output and what are the value of the Potentiometers.

Thanks for your help.
The two grounds are just illustrating the use of shielded wire. If your just using standard wire, pick any spot on that row and wire your ground(s) there. The output comes off the level pot. Just follow the schematic.

http://fuzzcentral.ssguitar.com/mkII.php
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Post by Taller76 »

Has anyone built the vero layout by phibes (thanks by the way!)? I just built it and I can get signal past one side of the .1 (the "top" side)...everything looks ok, but I am a complete vero virgin....I used the BYOC instructions as a half arsed troubleshooting guide and cant get signal past point 7 if anyone is familiar with the instructions. Any help is greatly appreciated.

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Post by Electric Warrior »

Try to cut traces at E14 and F14.

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Post by Taller76 »

Electric Warrior wrote:Try to cut traces at E14 and F14.
Makes sense....
I already tied the legs together on the trimmer, I will cut the tracks and report back.
Thanks!

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phibes
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Post by phibes »

Looks it already got answered. I left the trace uncut under the trimmer because everyone has their own preference. I just bend one of the legs under instead of making a trace cut.

I did miss the trace cut on row F. Thank you Wizard! Layout updated.
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Post by Electric Warrior »

it's the same file :shock:

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Post by phibes »

Son of a bitch rendered to a different folder...

Let's try again.
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Post by Taller76 »

phibes wrote:Son of a bitch rendered to a different folder...

Let's try again.
Now "verified" and sounding amazing...
THANKS!
:applause:
Might want to add a note about the trimmer legs...or maybe add an optional cut for e14
:thumbsup

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Post by phibes »

I put verified on the image and a note about the trimmer. Thank you for verifying. I really need to get around to boxing some of these up. I've had some killer trios burning a hole in my bench for too long. I personally like a 1k resistor in place of R4.

All the old photos will be deleted. I had no idea about the attachment manager in the control panel. Very fucking cool!
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professionalmkii-verified.gif
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Post by Greenmachine »

Hi Guys,

I just built the MkII from Fuzzcentral's schem with the trim pot and pulldown resistor. Pedal works, sounds very good; but the attack knob doesn't do anything at all. I've got a 4.7uf cap with negative lead to Attack 2 and positive going to input ground. Attack one is also going to input ground.

I'm using NTE102A in Q1 and Mitsubishi 2SB495 in Q2 and Q3.

I also installed an LED but that doesn't work. Care to comment? Positive lead meets the input on the board, negative lead goes to ground.

Cheers :o
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Post by Solidhex »

Yo

You also should specify the Schem you're using. The fuzz central site has the original MkII circuit ( positive ground ) but there's also the Mindbender at the bottom of the page which is negative ground and uses NPN germaniums. That's the one that has the pull down resistor and trimpot.

--Brad

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Post by Greenmachine »

I used the schem at the top of the fuzz central page. It doesn't have the trimpot or the 1meg pulldown resistor. The trim replaces the 8.2k resistor from the collector of Q3. The 1 meg pulldown is the first componet that meets the input and goes straight to ground.

Thanks
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phibes
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Post by phibes »

Got any pictures?

Also, why the LED to board input? Are you trying to do true bypass w/ LED with a dpdt switch?
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Post by Greenmachine »

Hi,

Sorry, I haven't any pictures; I've asked a friend about the led (3pdt true bypass) and he told me how to fix it. Basically, I've got to wire it all backwards because of the PNP circuit.

He also commented on the attack (which actually DOES seem to sharpen the tone a smidge) and said that in a high gain pedal like this, it might just not do much.

Thanks for your help.
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"This amp is freakin loud, like crazy, I'm going to kill pets loud." -- mich, 2011

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Greenmachine
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Post by Greenmachine »

I guess I didn't really answer your question though.

Usually I power the LED from the +9v point on the circuit board. I was told for PNP I've got to do this from the -9v point (or the black battery lead) on the circuit board, then to the switch, then to ground.
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Post by phibes »

Makes sense now, you were referring to the 9v input.

The attack pot should definitely be more active then just sharpening the tone so something isn't right there.
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