BAJA Wizard Wah Wah - photo essay  [documentation]

Original effects with schematics, layouts and instructions, freely contributed by members or found in publications. Cannot be used for commercial purposes without the consent of the owners of the copyright.
User avatar
bajaman
Old Solderhand
Information
Posts: 4549
Joined: 26 Jun 2007, 21:18
Location: New Brighton, Christchurch, NZ
Has thanked: 595 times
Been thanked: 2058 times

Post by bajaman »

Hi guys and gals
Here is a short photo essay on how to build a Wah Wah - in this case the Wizard Wah Wah, but the board can be used to build any non buffered wah pedal from a GCB95 Cry Baby through to a Vox V847 etc etc.
Just change the component values to suit. :wink:

First up the layout artwork:
Image

the PCB tracks:
Image

the PCB tracks laser printed onto transparency film
Image

the PCB material I use:
Image

the white protective plastic layer - marked out and ready to cut:
Image

Cut to size - and the baby saw I used:
Image

the coated PCB with the protective film removed - under the transparency with a sheet of glass on top of it - ready to expose to Ultraviolet light:
Image

the homemade ultraviolet light - Philips sun lamp:
Image

after 30 seconds exposure the dark green coating turns blue:
Image

the chemicals used to develop the exposure and to etch the unprotected copper:
Image

the board after 30 seconds in the developing solution - no more dark blue colouring, only dark green protective coating on the unexposed tracks remains:
Image

in the etching solution - after a couple of minutes - you can see the copper being eaten away and the liquid turning blue with the copper sulphate being produced:
Image

the etched board - off to the drill press we go:
Image

the board drilled and lightly sanded to remove the protective coating on the copper tracks:
Image

the board with the layout paper glued to the component side and the holes punced through with a pencil compass poiter etc:
Image

the board all populated and ready to wire in the chassis:
Image

the solder side:
Image

another shot of the completed board - note the BC550B transistors used - I did not have any BC239B types. Also note the 1k6 resistor made by joining a 1k5 and 100 ohm resistor in series, and the 360 ohm resistor made with a 330 ohm and 33 ohm in series - well allright - 363 ohms - close enough for rock n roll. the Fasel has 619 on top - that is the measured inductance, so I will have to fine tune one or more of the 15n and 220n capacitors probably:
Image

More to follow in the next few days :wink:
cheers
bajaman

User avatar
analogguru
Old Solderhand
Information
Posts: 3238
Joined: 26 Jun 2007, 13:58
Been thanked: 124 times
Contact:

Post by analogguru »

Cool and helpful for beginners this photo-essay... thanks !

analogguru
There´s a sucker born every minute - and too many of them end up in the bootweak pedal biz.

User avatar
soulsonic
Old Solderhand
Information
Posts: 3880
Joined: 27 Jun 2007, 03:38
my favorite amplifier: Traynor YVM-1
Completed builds: too many!
Location: Morgantown, WV
Has thanked: 183 times
Been thanked: 468 times
Contact:

Post by soulsonic »

That's the pro way to do it!
Thanks for sharing this! :D

User avatar
briggs
Tube Twister
Information
Posts: 1971
Joined: 12 Jul 2007, 10:02
my favorite amplifier: Briggs Custom Suprono
Completed builds: Too many to still class myself as sane....
Location: Breaking into Heaven.
Has thanked: 27 times
Been thanked: 128 times
Contact:

Post by briggs »

Very nice! Great photo essay baja. I'll do another one soon - for my super secret overdrive mojotron 8) Or maybe my new fuzzy/OD 8)
Image

I am Klon.

User avatar
gnognofasciani
Solder Soldier
Information
Posts: 159
Joined: 04 Aug 2007, 15:23
Location: nuburia
Has thanked: 4 times
Been thanked: 11 times

Post by gnognofasciani »

Bajaman you're great, not just for this but for every project you release...
Very professional :wink:

Thanks a lot :D

User avatar
bajaman
Old Solderhand
Information
Posts: 4549
Joined: 26 Jun 2007, 21:18
Location: New Brighton, Christchurch, NZ
Has thanked: 595 times
Been thanked: 2058 times

Post by bajaman »

Here is the final part of the photo essay - the assembly :wink:

this is the wah wah shell I purchased from steve Daniels at Small bear Electronics:
https://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa2 ... F0024s.jpg

and the outside:
https://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa2 ... F0025s.jpg

extra bits besides wire that you will need to complete the job - sSwitchcraft sockets and blue switch from Aron's store or Pedal Parts Plus, 2.1mm dc socket purchased locally and the Black bear pot purchased again from Small Bear:
https://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa2 ... F0027s.jpg

everything fitted and ready for wiring - note that the board layout holes do not line up with the wah chassis - i will remedy this on th e board layout and artwork very soon - no worries I just bolted on a double spade terminal to get it fixed. Also notice the shakeproof internal tooth star washers on the input and output sockets - keeps things nice and tight to ground:
https://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa2 ... F0021s.jpg

all wired up and ready to wail:
https://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa2 ... F0022s.jpg

and another finished shot:
https://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa2 ... F0023s.jpg

Okay then - how does it sound? i plugged in the strat and was pleasantly surprised - it worked first time - honest :wink:
You will have to build one yourself to judge what it sounds like, i am not going to go into ratures about haunting mids and shimmering highs (damn - I just did), because this is not a commercial offering and I am not trying to convince anyone to buy one :wink:

there are plenty of tweaks you can do to make this pedal more your cup of tea. the reason for this photo essay is to show you what can be done for a little effort and patience. The satisfaction fderived from building something for one's self is what I am hoping to encourage here.

Nevertheless, if you do not feel up to it, you can always purchase the genuine commercially available RMC Wizard Wah from one of Geoffrey Teese's outlets. his pedals are very well made and very reasonably priced too. You would be very hard pressed to build a wah wah like this from scratch for very much less than purchasing the ready built item, but the satisfaction of knowing that you built this for yourself is priceless in my humble opinion. :wink:

Rock on :lol: :wink: 8)
bajaman

User avatar
bajaman
Old Solderhand
Information
Posts: 4549
Joined: 26 Jun 2007, 21:18
Location: New Brighton, Christchurch, NZ
Has thanked: 595 times
Been thanked: 2058 times

Post by bajaman »

Just for your info:
The colour code I use for my wiring

white = input signal
blue = output signal
black = ground switch wiring
green = ground
brown = middle of pot return to circuit board
red = +9v feed

cheers
bajaman

User avatar
noelgrassy
Resistor Ronker
Information
Posts: 388
Joined: 28 Nov 2007, 02:43
my favorite amplifier: MOTS Magnatone & Trainwreck
Completed builds: Tonebender Mk II w/ 3 OC75's, Burns BuzzAround w/NKT 275,Rangemaster w/ OC44, Fuzz Face w/ SKS363's, CJOD, Harmonic Percolator w/2N404A & 2N3635(vintage correct box,sliding pots, 1%glass resistors),Stack-O-Dimes & Whipple Wahs,
Location: Vacuum Tube Valley, Cali
Has thanked: 11 times
Been thanked: 3 times

Post by noelgrassy »

Great tutorial Bajaman! I used a 500 ohm Bourns pot to achieve that 300+ ohms on my board.[see pic] Did you feel non-polarized caps were best next to the inductor? I've got a 2.2uf non-polarized 'lytic in that spot, I believe it was a 4.7uf originally. Is there an easy way to wire the Molex pins that go inside the header connector? Am I supposed to have a high dollar crimper for those or do you know of a slick work-around? Image
Copyright does not protect facts, ideas, systems, or methods of operation, although it may protect the way these things are expressed. US Copyright Office

User avatar
soulsonic
Old Solderhand
Information
Posts: 3880
Joined: 27 Jun 2007, 03:38
my favorite amplifier: Traynor YVM-1
Completed builds: too many!
Location: Morgantown, WV
Has thanked: 183 times
Been thanked: 468 times
Contact:

Post by soulsonic »

You could just desolder and remove the header.
"Analog electronics in music is dead. Analog effects pedal design is a dead art." - Fran

User avatar
bajaman
Old Solderhand
Information
Posts: 4549
Joined: 26 Jun 2007, 21:18
Location: New Brighton, Christchurch, NZ
Has thanked: 595 times
Been thanked: 2058 times

Post by bajaman »

I prefer solder to push on connectors - sorry never use molex connectors so cannot comment on how to attach them :wink:
bajaman

User avatar
noelgrassy
Resistor Ronker
Information
Posts: 388
Joined: 28 Nov 2007, 02:43
my favorite amplifier: MOTS Magnatone & Trainwreck
Completed builds: Tonebender Mk II w/ 3 OC75's, Burns BuzzAround w/NKT 275,Rangemaster w/ OC44, Fuzz Face w/ SKS363's, CJOD, Harmonic Percolator w/2N404A & 2N3635(vintage correct box,sliding pots, 1%glass resistors),Stack-O-Dimes & Whipple Wahs,
Location: Vacuum Tube Valley, Cali
Has thanked: 11 times
Been thanked: 3 times

Post by noelgrassy »

Is there any reason not to solder the leads directly to the header connector? That way I don't risk melting any of the thin PC traces with all that localized heat getting the Molex connector out.
Copyright does not protect facts, ideas, systems, or methods of operation, although it may protect the way these things are expressed. US Copyright Office

User avatar
soulsonic
Old Solderhand
Information
Posts: 3880
Joined: 27 Jun 2007, 03:38
my favorite amplifier: Traynor YVM-1
Completed builds: too many!
Location: Morgantown, WV
Has thanked: 183 times
Been thanked: 468 times
Contact:

Post by soulsonic »

Yeah, you can solder straight to the header pins. It's easiest if they're spaced kinda far apart. I used to have to do that all the time at Weber when I assembled Bias Rites, cuz they didn't believe in bothering to terminate the wires with a connector even though the board the wires attached to had a header like that on it... *sigh*

Traces don't melt; they may lift away from the board if the board isn't made particularly well and you go nuts with the heat. Heat is what causes the traces to lift, but the traces are only prone to lifting if they were etched for an insufficient amount of time. With some practice, you can get to where you can desolder from crappy boards without messing up the traces. Just find some old electronics junk and practice desoldering and removing components - you may even get some decent salvage out of it.
"Analog electronics in music is dead. Analog effects pedal design is a dead art." - Fran

User avatar
noelgrassy
Resistor Ronker
Information
Posts: 388
Joined: 28 Nov 2007, 02:43
my favorite amplifier: MOTS Magnatone & Trainwreck
Completed builds: Tonebender Mk II w/ 3 OC75's, Burns BuzzAround w/NKT 275,Rangemaster w/ OC44, Fuzz Face w/ SKS363's, CJOD, Harmonic Percolator w/2N404A & 2N3635(vintage correct box,sliding pots, 1%glass resistors),Stack-O-Dimes & Whipple Wahs,
Location: Vacuum Tube Valley, Cali
Has thanked: 11 times
Been thanked: 3 times

Post by noelgrassy »

Cool. Thanks for the tip about the traces. I still haven't got my solder station out of storage so I'm limited with heat control when using this Weller Fry-Rite. It's not that mongo "blacksmith's" soldering iron, it's a pencil type but I'd guess it's hovering around 600+ Farenheit. So quick & purposeful is how I gotta roll.
Copyright does not protect facts, ideas, systems, or methods of operation, although it may protect the way these things are expressed. US Copyright Office

User avatar
bajaman
Old Solderhand
Information
Posts: 4549
Joined: 26 Jun 2007, 21:18
Location: New Brighton, Christchurch, NZ
Has thanked: 595 times
Been thanked: 2058 times

Post by bajaman »

UPDATE
Here is the new board layout and PCB to fit the Small Bear Wah Wah shell and using a Dunlop Fasel inductor properly.
https://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa2 ... utrev2.png
https://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa2 ... CBrev2.png
enjoy
bajaman

User avatar
Barata
Information
Posts: 22
Joined: 24 Aug 2007, 16:20
Been thanked: 2 times

Post by Barata »

Nice construction Baja!
I'm thinking in start my wizard project next week in a Jim dunlop 535Q chassis.

As you might know it has a lateral bottom to boost the signal, which booster would you recommend me? (1 or 2 knobs)

User avatar
bajaman
Old Solderhand
Information
Posts: 4549
Joined: 26 Jun 2007, 21:18
Location: New Brighton, Christchurch, NZ
Has thanked: 595 times
Been thanked: 2058 times

Post by bajaman »

As you might know it has a lateral bottom to boost the signal
:?:
me not understand :? :wink:
bajaman

User avatar
Redhouse
Breadboard Brother
Information
Posts: 93
Joined: 29 Nov 2007, 14:34
Location: Sammamish, USA
Has thanked: 2 times

Post by Redhouse »

bajaman wrote:UPDATE
Here is the new board layout and PCB to fit the Small Bear Wah Wah shell and using a Dunlop Fasel inductor properly.
https://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa2 ... utrev2.png
https://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa2 ... CBrev2.png
enjoy
bajaman
If you don't mind me asking, was the error in your 1st drawing/layout or does the smallbear shell have different mounting-boss locations than a standard dunlop/vox shell?

User avatar
bajaman
Old Solderhand
Information
Posts: 4549
Joined: 26 Jun 2007, 21:18
Location: New Brighton, Christchurch, NZ
Has thanked: 595 times
Been thanked: 2058 times

Post by bajaman »

or does the smallbear shell have different mounting-boss locations than a standard dunlop/vox shell?
the amended layout / PCB fits a Small bear casing, it also has amended tracks for fitting a Dunlop Fasel inductor. The original board was traced off a picture of the underside of a Geoffrey Teese wizard Wah - perhaps the wah shell that Geoffrey uses has different mounting bosses - whether these are the same as a Dunlop wah I really do not know , sorry, because I have not got a Dunlop or Vox wah in the shop for servicing so cannot measure them - will check when I see one next. :wink:
bajaman

User avatar
super velcroboy
Information

Post by super velcroboy »

very nice tutorial bajaman :)

User avatar
vanessa
Cap Cooler
Information
Posts: 466
Joined: 08 Jul 2007, 17:51
Been thanked: 10 times

Post by vanessa »

bajaman wrote:sorry, because I have not got a Dunlop or Vox wah in the shop for servicing so cannot measure them - will check when I see one next. :wink:
bajaman
Bajaman, the layout on GGG for the wah-wah project looks to be copied from an the older Vox/Dunlop (it seems to be anyway, pretty damn close) pcb's they used to put in their standard wah shell.

Here's the link with the exact dimensions:

http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/pdf/ggg_wah_pcb.pdf

Post Reply