It's an unverified layout: Did you check it carefully against the schematic before building to verify it mightt actually work, or do you want us to do that? If you're certain it should work, and are certain you have built it exactly as drawn, you need to post pictures and voltages to give people something to go on. Even without a published set of voltages from an identical unit to compare, it is still possible to trace a fault from your voltages.Tildeathrenders wrote:WOW! is this an invisible thread? lol
Mid-Fi Electronics - Pitch Pirate - Guts, Schematic [traced]
- Nocentelli
- Tube Twister
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modman wrote: ↑ Let's hope it's not a hit, because soldering up the same pedal everyday, is a sad life. It's that same ole devilish double bind again...
I didn't compare everything to the schematic but most things I did, if someone wanted to do that, that'd be awesome. I did the voltages with the effect engaged (no sound at all) and the effect in bypass mode (bypasses fine). So here's the voltages for the circuit engaged. The battery tested at 7.16 and the LED readings are from the LDR/LED subbed for the VTL5C2.
JRC386D
1. 1.25
2. .01
3. .01
4. .01
5. 2.62
6. 5.43
7. 2.68
8. 1.25
JRC4558D
1. 4.97
2. 4.96
3. 5.39
4. 5.39
5. 4.98
6. 5.39
7. 4.97
8. 5.39
PT2399
1. 2.89
2. 1.45
3. .01
4. .01
5. .01
6. 1.45
7. 0
8. 2.69
9. 0.76
10. .09
11. 1.44
12. 1.44
13. 1.44
14. 1.45
15. 1.44
16. 1.44
78L05 Regulator
IN 5.37
GROUND .01
OUT 2.88
LED
+ 4.94
- 5.36
Here's the voltages with the effect in bypass......
JRC386D
1. 1.22
2. 1.39
3. .02
4. .01
5. 0.53
6. 5.60
7. 2.84
8. 1.38
JRC4558D
1. 5.07
2. 4.76
3. 5.17
4. 4.77
5. 5.0
6. 5.12
7. 5.02
8. 5.54
PT2399
1. 3.11
2. 1.56
3. .15-.39 (fluctuated)
4. .08
5. 3.06
6. 1.52
7. 0
8. 2.72
9. .79
10. .12
11. 1.46
12. 1.46
13. 1.47
14. 1.47
15. 1.47
16. 1.47
78L05 Regulator
IN 5.43
GROUND .01
OUT 2.90
LED
+ 4.86
- 4.55
I'm thinking it has something to do with the ground but I'm not positive. Any advice would help tremendously.
JRC386D
1. 1.25
2. .01
3. .01
4. .01
5. 2.62
6. 5.43
7. 2.68
8. 1.25
JRC4558D
1. 4.97
2. 4.96
3. 5.39
4. 5.39
5. 4.98
6. 5.39
7. 4.97
8. 5.39
PT2399
1. 2.89
2. 1.45
3. .01
4. .01
5. .01
6. 1.45
7. 0
8. 2.69
9. 0.76
10. .09
11. 1.44
12. 1.44
13. 1.44
14. 1.45
15. 1.44
16. 1.44
78L05 Regulator
IN 5.37
GROUND .01
OUT 2.88
LED
+ 4.94
- 5.36
Here's the voltages with the effect in bypass......
JRC386D
1. 1.22
2. 1.39
3. .02
4. .01
5. 0.53
6. 5.60
7. 2.84
8. 1.38
JRC4558D
1. 5.07
2. 4.76
3. 5.17
4. 4.77
5. 5.0
6. 5.12
7. 5.02
8. 5.54
PT2399
1. 3.11
2. 1.56
3. .15-.39 (fluctuated)
4. .08
5. 3.06
6. 1.52
7. 0
8. 2.72
9. .79
10. .12
11. 1.46
12. 1.46
13. 1.47
14. 1.47
15. 1.47
16. 1.47
78L05 Regulator
IN 5.43
GROUND .01
OUT 2.90
LED
+ 4.86
- 4.55
I'm thinking it has something to do with the ground but I'm not positive. Any advice would help tremendously.
- Nocentelli
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yep, you need zero volts on pin 4 on the 386 and 4558, and pin 3+4 on the 2399. What are you powering it with? Your 386 pin 6, 4558 pin 8 and regulator input should be showing 9 volts since they are hooked up to the red 9v trace, but they have show just over 5v so either it's a very flat battery or there is a short somewhere along that power line that is dividing down the voltage. This maybe related to the ground fault.
Also, your LED appears to show negative voltage on one side which is not possible in this single-sided supply, where all voltages should be positive when measured against ground (zero volts).
Also, your LED appears to show negative voltage on one side which is not possible in this single-sided supply, where all voltages should be positive when measured against ground (zero volts).
modman wrote: ↑ Let's hope it's not a hit, because soldering up the same pedal everyday, is a sad life. It's that same ole devilish double bind again...
- Nocentelli
- Tube Twister
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I somehow missed this - the point still stands, you should have 7.16v at the power pins of the chips, and 0v on the ground pins.Tildeathrenders wrote:The battery tested at 7.16
modman wrote: ↑ Let's hope it's not a hit, because soldering up the same pedal everyday, is a sad life. It's that same ole devilish double bind again...
I still cant figure out whats going on. The indicator LED flashes only when i put a ground wire directly on pin 3 or 4 of the 4558 but still get nothing, anywhere. Has anyone done a successful vero of the deluxe? This is the 3rd layout Ive done and none of them work. Has any worked for anyone else? Are they verified or what?
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i built the deluxe pitch pirate according to the vero layout at gfx using an nsl32 vactrol from bitsbox. and it works great.Beedoola wrote:Anyone have any LDR, photocell or LDR combos to try out or work best?
by way of a recommendation to anyone thinking of building or buying this, i think it's a massively underrated effect. so many wildly varied usable tones from one build. especially when compared to some of the novelty stuff from dba and seppuku etc (from which you often get one useful tone and fifty shades of useless noise).
plus doug shares with the scene while a lot of others don't. though you can bet they learned most of what they know from the scene. one-way traffic.
so i salute doug for this one. it's classy.
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^
hey notnews32, gfx = guitar fx layouts. aka tagboardeffects, but since 95% plus of the layouts are on vero the previous name is probably misleading now.
here are the links to the layout and the thread.
http://guitar-fx-layouts.42897.x6.nabbl ... 13530.html
http://guitar-fx-layouts.42897.x6.nabbl ... sKAWSs.png
i used two separates instead of the dual 50K blend. not entirely sure if i’m missing much by doing it as separates, but all the tones i hear in the demos are there. 50K dual is on the shopping list anyway, so will report back if it changes anything.
I also used a 2K instead of a 1K for wave. tried both and felt the 1K didn’t say it all. maybe the ideal is 1.5K. with 2K nothing happens for the first quarter turn then you start to get differences in tone. felt it was worth the compromise to get the extra bit the 1K wasn’t reaching. but try both.
best of luck with it.
hey notnews32, gfx = guitar fx layouts. aka tagboardeffects, but since 95% plus of the layouts are on vero the previous name is probably misleading now.
here are the links to the layout and the thread.
http://guitar-fx-layouts.42897.x6.nabbl ... 13530.html
http://guitar-fx-layouts.42897.x6.nabbl ... sKAWSs.png
i used two separates instead of the dual 50K blend. not entirely sure if i’m missing much by doing it as separates, but all the tones i hear in the demos are there. 50K dual is on the shopping list anyway, so will report back if it changes anything.
I also used a 2K instead of a 1K for wave. tried both and felt the 1K didn’t say it all. maybe the ideal is 1.5K. with 2K nothing happens for the first quarter turn then you start to get differences in tone. felt it was worth the compromise to get the extra bit the 1K wasn’t reaching. but try both.
best of luck with it.
- doug deeper
- Breadboard Brother
The dual gang is only on a hand full of these.
The current circuit uses a pan type arrangement for the blend, ie, single pot with 4 resistors and the wiper grounded.
The current circuit uses a pan type arrangement for the blend, ie, single pot with 4 resistors and the wiper grounded.
- digitalzombie
- Breadboard Brother
doug deeper wrote:The dual gang is only on a hand full of these.
The current circuit uses a pan type arrangement for the blend, ie, single pot with 4 resistors and the wiper grounded.
I'm having trouble visualizing this…
- doug deeper
- Breadboard Brother
Hi people!
I made this incredible pedal and works great but i've got this annoying click from the lfo, do others have this lfo noise?
I tried with JRC4558D, TL072 and LF353 and the click stays...
Sorry for my poor english, cheers.
Max
I made this incredible pedal and works great but i've got this annoying click from the lfo, do others have this lfo noise?
I tried with JRC4558D, TL072 and LF353 and the click stays...
Sorry for my poor english, cheers.
Max
When I'm attacked by Christians, I proudly repond: Your GOD was nailed to the cross, mine has a hammer in his hand, draw your own conclusions... Nergal (Behemoth)
- grrrunge
- Diode Debunker
Information
None of those are low current consumption amps. Try a LM358 or similar.negrosinfe wrote:Hi people!
I made this incredible pedal and works great but i've got this annoying click from the lfo, do others have this lfo noise?
I tried with JRC4558D, TL072 and LF353 and the click stays...
Sorry for my poor english, cheers.
Max
If that doesn't fix the issue, try soldering a small-ish cap (47n-100n) directly across the supply pins on each chip, and see if that helps you any. It's a widely used technique for curing supply rail pollution in digital circuitry.
A true believer in the magic of Sherwood Forest Pedal Pirates
---
New base of operations: http://www.knucklehead.dk
---
New base of operations: http://www.knucklehead.dk
- doug deeper
- Breadboard Brother
From V+ (after the diode), run two small value resistors (10-100 ohms is fine) each with their own filter cap to ground (47uf-100uf is good).
One side feeds the audio, the other feeds the LFO.
Keep your wiring/layout tidy and you shouldn't have much of an issue.
That said, the PT2399 being slammed back and forth by the square wave setting does make some slushy sounds that are just the nature of the beast.
One side feeds the audio, the other feeds the LFO.
Keep your wiring/layout tidy and you shouldn't have much of an issue.
That said, the PT2399 being slammed back and forth by the square wave setting does make some slushy sounds that are just the nature of the beast.
- soulsonic
- Old Solderhand
Information
Can anyone repost the schematic?
"Analog electronics in music is dead. Analog effects pedal design is a dead art." - Fran
Great effect. Although it gets a bit dark sometimes. Is there any way to prevent that loss of treble content? Or maybe reduce bass...I took a look at the schematic but, to be honest, I don't know what cap/resistor would do the trick. I was thinking about having a 3 way mini switch with different options.
Cheers!
Cheers!