Keeley - Katana

ryanuk · Post by **ryanuk** » 23 Nov 2008, 22:34

LJDA - good job with the layout - which program did you use???

Jimib - as requested, here is the top and bottom views of my layout - just print them at 100% and they are the right size. Also attached is a blow up of the layout.

Im pretty sure this is correct but please please please - everyone who has a katana please post more pics just so we can be sure.

Peace, out.

RyUK

LJDA · Post by **LJDA** » 24 Nov 2008, 22:22

I make it with corel draw. I have an old version in the office, but I work very well with it!

When I have time I will try to update my layout.

RyUK, I check your layouts and its apears correct. Very good job!

95strat · Post by **95strat** » 26 Nov 2008, 05:19

That does look good. I'll try to shoot some pics tomorrow to see if I can clear up any questions you may have.

ryanuk · Post by **ryanuk** » 01 Dec 2008, 11:34

95strat wrote:That does look good. I'll try to shoot some pics tomorrow to see if I can clear up any questions you may have.

95strat - any update on these pics??

bacaruda · Post by **bacaruda** » 01 Dec 2008, 16:13

Katana arrived. The transistors in this one are 2N5484. I can't make out the diode markings, but I don't think they match those in the schem. I'll look it over tonight with a magnifying glass and post close-up photos tomorrow.

Torchy · Post by **Torchy** » 02 Dec 2008, 01:46

Not built yet but looks right, any mistakes tell me.

Component numbering same as pdf schematic ...

bacaruda · Post by **bacaruda** » 02 Dec 2008, 21:57

Okay, spent some time tracing the Katana last night. This one has a few different part values.

RF cap is 220pF
Transistors are Fairchild 2N5484
Pot is 250k Audio taper
Small red diodes are unknown - I can make out V41 . . . any guesses before I desolder?

Please check schem for errors, thanks.

Torchy · Post by **Torchy** » 02 Dec 2008, 21:59

V41 ... probably 1N4148 ...

bacaruda · Post by **bacaruda** » 02 Dec 2008, 22:15

That was my first thought too.

photos:

analogguru · Post by **analogguru** » 02 Dec 2008, 22:52

I doubt that it is a 1N4148 - measure the voltage across
it, if it is less than 0,5V than it is a schottky-diode.

BTW, doesn´t this unit produce a pop-noise when S2 is activated ?

analogguru

Fuzzer · Post by **Fuzzer** » 03 Dec 2008, 02:53

mmm, ¿could it be a zener diode?, they typically have a V, but then we would be missing the first number...

95strat · Post by **95strat** » 03 Dec 2008, 04:37

I apologize for not getting to this. My wife and I just had our second child so I've been a bit distracted. I will try to get to it as soon as possible.

ryanuk wrote:
95strat wrote:That does look good. I'll try to shoot some pics tomorrow to see if I can clear up any questions you may have.
95strat - any update on these pics??

ryanuk · Post by **ryanuk** » 03 Dec 2008, 09:16

95strat wrote:I apologize for not getting to this. My wife and I just had our second child so I've been a bit distracted. I will try to get to it as soon as possible.

ryanuk wrote:
95strat wrote:That does look good. I'll try to shoot some pics tomorrow to see if I can clear up any questions you may have.
95strat - any update on these pics??

95strat - no worries. Didnt mean to push. Congrats on your new baby!! My wife and I are expecting our second early next year.

Ry

JHS · Post by **JHS** » 03 Dec 2008, 09:19

Diodes could be 1N5817, they look similar to the 5817 from Digikey.

JHS

ryanuk · Post by **ryanuk** » 03 Dec 2008, 09:44

bacaruda - great job on the schematic. I've checked it against mine and they appear to be the same in principle ...

... save for the different values you identified for C10 and the diodes.

Any chance you could desolder so we can finally put this thread to rest??

Also the datasheet for the MAX1044 recommends shottky diodes for this application. Not sure if this helps.

Fuzzer · Post by **Fuzzer** » 03 Dec 2008, 13:47

It makes sense that they're schottky diodes, to get the most juice out of the voltage doubler.

underage · Post by **underage** » 16 Dec 2008, 06:48

Curiousity make me bump

OverDriveManiac · Post by **OverDriveManiac** » 07 Jan 2009, 01:47

Has anyone built this yet? I am having a problem with this circuit.

The circuit works fine except for when I engage the bypass cap C4 (of course, at the same time C4 is engaged, so is C3).

When I engage the bypass cap, the low end strings (most notably, E and A) get flabby. It sounds OK with relatively light picking, but if I start to chug away (i.e. Metallica’s Master of Puppets), the low-end strings flab out.

Any hints or tips on how to fix this?

Also, what should my voltages at the drain of Q1 and Q2 be? I get around 11.5V which seems high.

Many thanks in advance.

OverDriveManiac

PS: This was my fisrt post

so I hope I am not too much of a noob.

OverDriveManiac · Post by **OverDriveManiac** » 10 Jan 2009, 01:55

Can anyone help?

Many thanks in advance.

OverDriveManiac

rocklander · Post by **rocklander** » 10 Jan 2009, 06:45

OverDriveManiac wrote:Can anyone help?

Many thanks in advance.

OverDriveManiac

sorry bro.. not tried to build as yet.. I know I kicked this thread off, but since I built the bajaman black toast my boost is covered and other stuff has gotten priority over playing with this one